171. Shkhara main via the North-East Counterfort of the Northern Edge

(combined route by P. Baudysh, 5B cat. dif., fig. 18, 20). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to the Jangy hut is described in route 161. Further:

• cross the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier upwards to the right,
• then ascend the left snowy slope to a small South-East cirque of the Eastern branch,
• approach the left side of the North-East counterfort of the Northern edge of Shkhara Main peak via the ice-snow slope of the glacier.

From the hut: 4-5 hours.

On the glacier, turn right. After passing the bergschrund, ascend 80 m upwards on the steep ice-snow slope on the left side of the North-East counterfort (to the right of the counterfort is an icefall- and rockfall-prone couloir). Here, turn right and ascend 80 m upwards to the right on snow-covered rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty onto the North-East counterfort.

On the snow-covered rocks of the North-East counterfort of medium and above-medium difficulty, approach the base of the first wall. Ascend directly upwards on the difficult rocks in the center of the wall, then traverse left, and beyond the edge, ascend directly upwards through a rock overhang (ladders, pitons) onto the first wall. From the wall, exit onto a platform below a rock ascent via the rocks and the ice-snow slope of the North-East counterfort (exit point of N. Romanenko's group onto the North-East counterfort. The group ascended from the glacier via a 100-120-meter ice slope). Further:

• ascend 40-meter rocks on the left side of the North-East counterfort, to the left of the first ascenders' path,
• traverse right on ledges through an ice-snow couloir onto an ice-snow slope,
• ascend 300-400 m on the ice-snow slope with a platform on a rock outcrop in the upper part onto a platform below the rock ascent of the North-East counterfort.

On the platform - a bivouac. From the South-East cirque of the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier: 8-12 hours.

From the platform, ascend 100-120 meters on snow-covered rocks of above-medium difficulty. Further, on simple and medium-difficulty snow-covered rocks and ice-snow ridges of the North-East counterfort, approach the base of the second wall.

The 40-meter wall is overcome initially upwards to the right on a narrow ledge of above-medium difficulty, then a difficult ascent directly upwards (piton) onto the top of the wall. Further, on medium-difficulty snow-covered rocks, ice-snow slopes, and ridges, exit onto a platform of an ice-snow shoulder below the third 120-meter wall. On the platform - a bivouac. From the previous bivouac: 6-8 hours.

From the platform, ascend on difficult rocks upwards to the left towards a chimney. Ascend the chimney with a plug upwards onto a ledge, on the left side of which there is a 25-30 meter ascent on difficult rocks ("live" rocks, pitons) onto the third wall. The ascent is also possible on the corners, slabs, and chimneys on the right side.

From the third wall of the North-East counterfort, ascend 400-500 m upwards on ice-snow (avalanche-prone) slopes onto the summit of Shkhara Main. From the previous bivouac: 5-7 hours.