№ 77

Glacier0.58 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent route description for Peak Tereshkova (4830 m) via the southern edge, complexity category 4B, rocky terrain, elevation gain 650 m.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area — Alai Range.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Terekhova Peak, 4830 m, via the southern ridge.
  4. Expected complexity category — 4B.
  5. Route characteristics — rock climbing, height difference — 650 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 100 m, average steepness of the route — 60°.
  6. Pitons hammered in: | | for belaying | for creating artificial footholds | | :----------------------------- | :----------- | :--------------------------------- | | rock | 3 | none |
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Traversing six peaks of the Altai Range: Suyen Peak, Tereshkova Peak, Bykovsky Peak, Popovich Peak, Nikolaev Peak, Gagarin Peak, category of difficulty 5A.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: traverse.
  2. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Altai ridge: Kok-Su valley.
  3. Traverse of peaks: Sons 4950 m — Tereshkova 4870 m — Bykovsky 4840 m — Popovich 4800 m — Nikolaev 4900 m — Gagarin 4850 m.
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference: 1330 m, length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 460 m, average steepness.
  6. Pitons used for passage: Rock pitons — 67, ice pitons — none.
  7. Total hours of climbing — 34.5.
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Ascent to the summit of Syinovya Peak (5100 m) via the southwestern counterfort and southern ridge, category of difficulty 4.5A.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION CLIMBING ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent category — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Alai Ridge.
  3. Peak "Sыnovey", 5100 m, via the southwest buttress and south ridge.
  4. Category 5A difficulty.
  5. Elevation gain of the route 800 m, length of 5th category
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Description of the ascent route to Peak Sinovyi, 5100 m, via the central counterfort of the northwest wall, category 5A difficulty.

Ascent Passport

  1. Climbing category: technical
  2. Region: Pamir-Alay
  3. Peak: Pik Synovey, 5100 m, via the central buttress of the southwest wall
  4. Difficulty category: 5A
  5. Route characteristics: rock climbing, elevation gain — 650 m, average slope — 65°, section lengths: 1 — none, 2 — none, 3 — 320 m, 4 — 260 m, 5 — 170 m, 6 — 5 m
  6. Pitons used: for belaying: rock 52, ice 0, bolted 0 for creating artificial holds: rock 2, ice 0, bolted 0
  7. Climbing time: 11 hours
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Traverse of unnamed peaks "D" 4850 m in Dzhungarsky Alatau, grade 4A, route length 1830 m, with significant elevation gain.

ASCENT DOCUMENT.

  1. Ascent type: traverse.
  2. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Alaysky ridge, Kок-Су gorge.
  3. Traverse of unnamed peaks "D" 4850 m - "P" 4840 m - "T" 4950 m.
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference:
    • section lengths:
      • no category - none
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Description of a category 3B difficulty level route to Peak "I" (4850 m) via the north-eastern counterfort in the Alay mountain range, Kок-су valley.

  1. Climbing category — technical.
  2. Climbing area — Alai Range, Koksu valley.
  3. Summit — Peak "G", 4850 m, via the north-eastern counterfort.
  4. Difficulty category — 3B.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 360 m, length — 470 m, average steepness — 50°
  6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock pitons — 24
  7. Total climbing hours — 4.
  8. Overnight stays — none.
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### Ascent Route to Peak "N" Overview Detailed analysis of the technical characteristics and necessary equipment for a 4-person team.

Ascent Passport

Technical

  1. Ascent class: Technical
  2. Ascent area (according to KTMGV): Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge, Koksu Valley
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Unnamed "N" 4600 m Eastern ridge
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 650 m average steepness 45° section length: I 220 m, II 300 m, III 160 m, IV 200 m, V 25 m, VI 1 m
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Report on the first ascent of the route to Bykovsky Peak via the eastern wall of the eastern ridge, with a complexity rating of 4B cat. gr.

Report

ON TRAVERSE P. "N" — P. Bykovsky with ascent via the eastern wall of the eastern ridge of P. "N", 4B cat. diff. (approximately). First ascent. 2nd: Bogomolov S. G., August 15, 1978 Krul V. N. ~650 m, ascent 50°, III–440, IV–80, V–40. asc. cr., 6.5 hours. July 1978

Map of the ascent area

Appendix No.2

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Description of the ascent route to Peak Tereshkova via the North-Eastern Counterfort (4,870 m), category 5A difficulty level in Pamir-Alay.

106

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical.

2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge.

3. Summit — Treshkova Peak via the North-Eastern spur (height 4870 m).

4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A.

5. Route characteristics:

  • height difference — 870 m,
  • average steepness — 46°,
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Ascent report on the Sons (5100 m) peak via the North wall in the Alay range, category of difficulty 5B, describing the route and its stages.

ASCENT DOCUMENT 102

  1. Climbing category: technical
  2. Climbing area: Alai Ridge
  3. Peak: Pik Synovey, height approximately 5100 m, ascent route - via the North face.
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — approximately 1100 m. average slope: 55° section lengths: 2nd difficulty category – 160 m, 3rd difficulty category – 190 m, 4th difficulty category – 300 m, 5th difficulty category – 590 m, 6th difficulty category – 40 m.
  6. Pitons driven:
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