Ascent Passport
Technical
- Ascent class: Technical
- Ascent area (according to KTMGV): Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge, Koksu Valley
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Unnamed "N" 4600 m Eastern ridge
- Proposed difficulty category: 3B
- Route characteristics: height difference 650 m average steepness 45° section length: I 220 m, II 300 m, III 160 m, IV 200 m, V 25 m, VI 1 m
- Pitons hammered: for belay 17 rock 17 ice – bolted 6
- Number of climbing hours: 6 h
- Number of nights and their characteristics: –
- Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification: Bogomolov S.G. — leader, 1st sports category Pertilo L.N. — 1st sports category, Krupbd V.I. — 1st sports category, Kurus Ya.I. — 1st sports category
- Team coach: Kurus Ya.I.
- Date of departure and return: August 24, 1978
Note:
- total length of sections from R1 to RVI cat. difficulty in meters
- the passport is filled out on a sheet of Whatman paper size 297×210. On the back of the passport, a photograph of the peak with a size of 18×24 cm should be attached, with the route and all previously climbed routes marked:
Appendix 2
After each day, record: departure and arrival time at the bivouac, total climbing hours for the day (excluding rest, food, waiting for bad weather, etc.), bivouac conditions.
NOTE: *1/ — sections are numbered starting from zero. The first section is located between zero and the number 1, etc. *2/ — indicates: chimney, couloir, ridge, ledge (for one, two), etc., if not rock, then "ice", "snow", "firn" is added. *3/ — indicates: category of the section (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6). *4/ — indicates: monolith, destroyed, icy, rockfall, etc. *5/ — Arabic numerals record the number of pitons hammered for belay organization. — Roman numerals record those hammered for creating ITO. — If pitons are not required, then выступы (ledges) or simultaneous movement, or the number of pitons and ledges are recorded.
Date: August 26, 1978 Departure time: 6:00 Return time: 16:00
| Designation | Average steepness in degrees | Length in meters | Relief character | Difficulty | Condition | Conditions | Rock pitons | Ice pitons | Bolted pitons |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R0–R1 | 30 | 80 | large talus | 1 | destroyed | excellent | – | – | – |
| R1–R2 | ridge | 120 | ridge | 2 | destroyed | – " – belay | – | – | – |
| 20 | rocks | for ledges | |||||||
| R2–R3 | 60 | 20 | ledge | 4 | monolith | – " – | 4 | – | – |
| R3–R4 | ridge | 120 | ridge | 1 | destroyed | – " – | simultaneou | – | – |
| ridge | s | ||||||||
| R4–R5 | 45 | 40 | inner corner | 4 | destroyed | – " – | 3 | – | – |
| rocks | |||||||||
| R5–R6 | 30 | 60 | couloir | 2 | – " – | – " – | simultaneou | – | – |
| s | |||||||||
| R6–R7 | 0 | 20 | ledge | 1 | good rocks | – " – | – | – | – |
| R7–R8 | 70 | 25 | ridge | 5 | monolith | – " – | 3 | – | – |
| R8–R9 | 40 | 50 | couloir | 2 | destroyed | – " – | simultaneou | – | – |
| rocks | s | ||||||||
| R9–R10 | 60 | 120 | ridge | 4 | monolith | – " – | 6, ledges | – | – |
| R10–R11 | 40 | 160 | ridge | 3 | monolith | – " – | ledges | – | – |
| R11–R12 | 30 | 60 | ledge for 2 | 2 | – " – | – " – | ledges | – | – |
| R12–R13 | 80 | 20 | chimney | 4 | – " – | – " – | 1 | – | – |
Route description
From the base camp at Kazhdeba meadow, the path goes along the left bank of the river (orographically) to the camps under Peak Syinovey. Time — 3.5–4 hours.
From the camps along the moraines and glacier to the eastern ridge of peak "N". — 1 hour. The ascent to the ridge is from the right along a large moraine. 80 m. Then along simple rocks, 3 ropes along the ridge.
Gendarme. Bypass to the right. Climbing of medium complexity. Exit to a snowy shoulder. — 2 hours. Control cairn. Simultaneous movement — 120 m.
Approach to the inner corner — 40 m. Piton belay! Rocks!
Exit to a wide couloir — 60 m, from it to a ledge. Traverse to the right under the gendarme with rocks like "ram's foreheads". The gendarme is taken head-on. Difficult climbing — 25 m. Piton belay. Descent by climbing 10 m into a wide couloir.
(An option is possible: descent by rappel — 15 m from under the gendarme into a wide couloir). Along the wide couloir along destroyed rocks, exit to the ridge — 60 m.
Along the ridge — 120 m to the gendarme "Rocky Fang". Piton belay! From "Rocky Fang" along the ridge 150 m to the summit tower. The tower is bypassed on the left along a ledge. From the ledge, exit through a chimney to the summit. 4 hours.
Descent from the summit along a wide couloir to the glacier between peaks "G" and "N" and further to the camp. — 2 hours.
List of equipment for a group of 4 people:
- Vibram, galoshes — 1 pair
- Main rope 40 m — 2
- Rock pitons — 15 pieces
