Report

ON TRAVERSE P. "N" — P. Bykovsky with ascent via the eastern wall of the eastern ridge of P. "N", 4B cat. diff. (approximately). First ascent.

2nd: Bogomolov S. G., August 15, 1978 Krul V. N. ~650 m, ascent 50°, III–440, IV–80, V–40. asc. cr., 6.5 hours.

July 1978

Map of the ascent area

Appendix No.2

Brief description of the approach route

To the route

From the base camp at Koshdeba clearing, ascend the river to the confluence of two streams (2 hours). From the confluence, follow the right (by direction; north) stream, topographically right, to the initial bivouac on a green area (1.5 hours). There is a stream here.

From the initial bivouac, gently ascend along the stream bank, bypassing moraines on the right, under the walls of P. Synovey. We ascend to the glacier, proceed to the saddle between P. Tereshkova and P. Synovey, turn left, and, bypassing the start of the eastern ridge that branches off from P. Bykovsky on the left side, approach the base of the dark triangular wall. From the bivouac to the start of the route — 1 hour.

Brief explanation for the table (Appendix No.2)

Section R0–R1

The start of the route is under a large protrusion from the wall, under a shelf that crosses it from left to right, with a rock in the shape of the letter "W". Ascend the wall towards the large overhanging rock in the shape of the letter "W" — 5 m of tense climbing on a monolithic wall with few handholds. Belay is via pitons.

On the shelf under the rock in the shape of the letter "W", 30 m away from it, a control cairn is set up.

Section 1–2

From the control cairn, exit left upwards onto an inclined shelf. 30 m of tense climbing on a monolithic wall with few handholds. Belay is via pitons.

Section R2–R3

A wide inclined shelf crosses the triangular wall in its lower third, from the left edge upwards to the right edge, with a slope of up to 40°. The shelf is filled with a large number of "loose" rocks, ice, and snow, and is traversed by ledges. Movement on the shelf is simultaneous.

The ledges are: – vertical walls up to 4–6 m high; – either monolithic or composed of large rocks.

The walls are overcome by climbing with thorough piton belay (many "loose" rocks).

Before reaching the right edge, we overcome a 15 m high wall by climbing with piton belay. After overcoming the wall, we exit onto a wide area between the wall and the ridge.

Section 3–4

From the area, an internal angle leads upwards under overhanging rocks in the shape of feathers. 30 m of difficult climbing on smooth walls of the internal angle with few handholds and cracks for pitons lead to a narrow shelf. From the shelf, left — traverse under an overhanging rock (8 m) with exit to a small area. From the area, upwards via a vertical crack (10 m) with belay on protrusions and pitons. From the crack, we exit into a small notch on the edge of the wall. The section consists of monolithic rocks with a steepness of 70–90°. The section is traversed using a fixed rope.

Section 4–5

Upwards along the edge on monolithic rocks with rare but reliable handholds, we exit onto the top of the wall. Movement is alternating with piton belay and on protrusions.

Section R5–R9

Along the ridge, bypassing encountered gendarmes on the right or left via shelves, we approach the base of the summit tower of P. "N", which we bypass on the left side. Ascent to the summit of P. "N" is via a chimney (15 m). We reached the summit at 13:30.

Section R5–R7

Descent from the tower of P. "N" is via the ascent route to a shelf at the base of the summit tower. Along the shelf on the left side of the ridge, we descend to the saddle between P. "N" and P. Bykovsky.

A wide couloir, completely filled with rocks, leads to the summit of P. Bykovsky. We cautiously ascend the couloir along the right side on heavily destroyed rocks ("loose" rocks!). We reached the summit of P. Bykovsky at 14:00.

Section R7–R8

Descent from the summit of P. Bykovsky is along the ridge towards P. Tereshkova. Along the heavily destroyed rocks of the ridge, we descend to a snow patch before a black gendarme in the ridge.

Throughout this route, there are many "loose" rocks.

Section 8–9

From the snow patch, right and downwards into a wide couloir. Along the icy slope of the couloir, carefully belaying on protruding rocks, we descend to a rocky outcrop.

Section R9–R10

From the rocky outcrop, we descend to a flattening snow patch in the lower part. Along the snow patch, belaying via an ice axe, we exit onto the glacier.

The group assesses the difficulty of the traversed route as 4B cat. diff. For safety, it is recommended to traverse the route, especially in its wall section, in good weather.