Аксаутский

Ascent to the summit of Yuzhnye Bratcy via the left eastern counterfort, category 2B difficulty level, route description and technical information.

Class — technical. North Caucasus, Aксаут gorge. Peak Yuzhnye Bratcy via left eastern counterfort. Proposed — Category 2B difficulty, first ascent. Height difference — 600 m, length — 880 m. The average steepness of the route is 45°; maximum steepness in areas — up to 70°. Pitons were not left on the route. Climbing hours on the route — II. Overnight stays on the route — none. Leader: Timonin Sergey Nikolayevich, 2nd sports category.

Report on the first traverse of Aksaut in 1972 with a detailed description of the route and its difficulties.

Severodonetsk Sports Club "Khimik" UkrSSR Alpine Championship Report On the first ascent of the Aksaut traverse with ascent via the East ridge to the Second Northern Aksaut and further traverse to the Eastern Aksaut (approximately route 5B cat. diff.) July 14 – July 20, 1972  The ascent is dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the USSR formation Severodonetsk – 1972  List of assault group participants

Ascent to the summit of Aksaut North-Eastern via the South-East Wall, category III, completed by a group of climbers in 1977.

Ascent Log I. Ascent category: rock climbing Ascent area: CAUCASUS, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. Peak, its height, and ascent route: AKSAUT NORTH-EAST (3760 m) via the South-East wall. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B Route characteristics: height difference 950 m, average steepness 65°, total length of sections: 1300 m. | including I | none | | :---------- | :---- | | II | none |

Report on the ascent to the summit Aksaut Northern via the northern ridge, category 2B, including route description, area information, and recommendations.

Report ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF AKSAUT NORTH VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2B DIFFICULTY MULTIPROFILE ALPINISM CLUB "FRILINE" 12.06.2018 Ascent Passport | № | 1. General Information | | | :----: | :----------------------------------: | :------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Donskov Andrey Mikhailovich, 1st sports rank | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | - | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Motienko Nikolai Ilyich |

Ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut (3540 m) from the northeast, category of complexity 2B, route description and recommendations for climbers.

Fig. 5 Ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut (3540 m) from the northeast - category 2B (see Fig. 5) From Domai through the Jalovchat pass and descent to the "barany lby" (ram's foreheads) above the Jalovchat glacier - bivouac. From Domai campsite 7-8 hours. From the bivouac descent to the Jalovchat glacier and further, crossing it in the direction of the Severny Aksaut summit, to the rocky outcrop. To the left of the rocky outcrop upwards and along the glacier to the eastern spur of Severny Aksaut. Ascent along the destroyed rocks of the spur to the right - upwards 80-90 m, then exit to the right onto the glacier (the glacier is cut, crevasses, insurance!) and along the glacier to the right - upwards - exit to the rocks. Then: through the bergschrund (insurance!) ascent along the destroyed rocks (insurance through ledges, местами крючьевая!); further along the snow - exit to the Severny Aksaut pass. From the bivouac on "barany lby" 4-5 hours. Further see the description of the ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut from the northwest. Recommendations for climbers

Ascent to Maly Akshuat peak from the east (Cat. 2B): route description, recommendations, features, and necessary equipment.

Ascent to the summit Maly Akshuat from the east - 2B cat. sl. From the bivouac on the false pass to the left along the shelves exit to the Khamurza pass. From the pass 15–20 m straight up along the ridge. Further to the left-up along the crack 6–8 m to the inclined shelf (hook!) and then ascent to the left of the ridge along the shelves, crossing a number of loose couloirs, to the last gendarme in front of the summit. The entire path: is prone to rockfall requires careful insurance use hooks and ledges Bypass the gendarme to the right along the shelves, exit again to the left onto the ridge and along it to the

Description of the passage of category 3B complexity route to Maly Ayshaut summit via the eastern counterfort with a detailed analysis of the sections and climbing conditions.

Sportive Characteristics and Selection of the Ascent Object The area began to be explored in terms of alpinism in 1934. The peak Maly Aksaut has the following routes: a route of category 2B difficulty via the eastern ridge, described in F. Kropff's book "Western Caucasus", M.: FiS, 1962; a route traversed by the Odessa Regional Council of the "Avangard" sports society in July 1975, approximately category 3B difficulty. No other data on ascents to the peak M. Aksaut was found. Upon closer acquaintance with the area, the logical and objective safety of the route along the eastern counterfort was established, as well as its sportive attractiveness. This determined the object of the ascent. Composition of the Sports Group The group consisted of: Braer V.I. (leader), 1st sports category Markovsky O.V., Master of Sports of the USSR

Report on the ascent of Main Aксаут via the North face in 1961, description of the route and overcoming the wall.

Central Council of DSO "Spartak" Alpinist National Team Report On the Ascent to Main Aксаут via the North Face July 17–22, 1961 Aксаут Massif and its North Face. (Geographical location and history of exploration) The Aксаут massif is located west of the popular Dombay region and, together with the Кара-Каи massif and the spurs of Джаловчат, closes the picturesque Aксаут valley. The Aксаут node consists of 9 peaks, among which the most significant alpinist interest is drawn to: Узловая (3860 m) Средняя (3870 m)

Ascent to the summit Main Aksaut (3910 m) from the south, category of difficulty 2B, route description and recommendations for climbers.

Ascent to the summit Glavny Aksaut (3910 m) from the south — cat. diff. 2B From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Turye Lake, then along the trail and through the barany lby to the Dvuyazychny Glacier and along it (in ropes!) to the Jalovchat Pass. From Dombayskaya Polyana 6 hours. From the pass down to the barany lby and through them to the Jalovchat Glacier. Then along the right-bank moraine and further along the Jalovchat Glacier in the direction of the Khamurza Pass, keeping to the left of the rocky outcrops, exit to the steep part of the glacier. Up the steep slope of the glacier (crampons!): 300–350 m left-up, then 180–200 m right — up, exit under the western ridge of the Maly Jalovchat peak. Further: traverse right 120–150 m to the rocks of the Maly Aksaut peak, crossing the bergschrund (protection!),

Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Aksaut via the North-East Face: 4A category route, specifics of passage and recommendations.

Fig. 4 Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Aksaut (3800 m) via the north-eastern wall — category 4A difficulty (Fig. 4Б) From Dombayskaya Polyana, descend to the baranii lby bivouac via the Dalovchatsky Pass. 7–8 hours from Dombayskaya Polyana. From the bivouac, descend to the Jalovchatsky Glacier. Cross it diagonally upwards towards Vostochny Aksaut. Approach the steep glacier under the base of the Vostochny Aksaut counterfort and directly upwards (in rope teams!) to the counterfort rocks. Slightly below the rocks, traverse the glacier first upwards to the right for 70–80 m, then to the left, to reach the neck of the ice-snow couloir (beware of rockfall and