Fig. 4

4. Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Aksaut (3800 m) via the north-eastern wall — category 4A difficulty (Fig. 4Б)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, descend to the baranii lby bivouac via the Dalovchatsky Pass. 7–8 hours from Dombayskaya Polyana.

From the bivouac, descend to the Jalovchatsky Glacier. Cross it diagonally upwards towards Vostochny Aksaut. Approach the steep glacier under the base of the Vostochny Aksaut counterfort and directly upwards (in rope teams!) to the counterfort rocks. Slightly below the rocks, traverse the glacier first upwards to the right for 70–80 m, then to the left, to reach the neck of the ice-snow couloir (beware of rockfall and ice-snow avalanches!). From the neck, ascend 25–30 m upwards to the right across rock formations resembling baranii lby (use piton protection!), then exit left onto a steep snow slope (50–55°) and ascend 30–35 m up its right side (with protection!). Then traverse left and upwards to reach the base of the first rock wall. Due to the risk of rockfall and ice-snow avalanches, the section from the neck to the first rock wall should be traversed before sunrise!

Ascend 30 m up the wall (piton protection!) and reach the counterfort ridge. Continue up the counterfort ridge, bypassing gendarmes mostly on the left (protection via rock features!). From the lowering in the ridge, traverse 50–60 m to the left, ascend a small gendarme using piton protection, and then traverse 30 m along a narrow snow ridge to approach the second wall. On the wall:

• ascend 15 m upwards to the left (piton protection!);
• then upwards to the right and exit into a mulda (beware of rockfall!).

Ascend the snowfield on the right side of the mulda and exit onto a severely damaged ridge. Traverse 70–80 m along the ridge (protection via rock features!) and reach the summit.

9–10 hours from the bivouac to the summit. The summit offers a bivouac site.

Descent from the summit:

• Initially, descend 50–60 m down the right side of the eastern ridge to a wide couloir.
• Descend through the middle part of the wide couloir, leaving two narrow couloirs on the left, directly downwards to a large depression, staying closer to the right ridge (protection via rock features and pitons!).
• From the depression, descend down the left part of a steep narrow couloir onto the Jalovchatsky Glacier (rappel descent onto the glacier!) and then back to the initial bivouac site on the baranii lby.

Descent from the summit to the baranii lby takes 6–7 hours.

The entire descent route is prone to rockfall!

Recommendations for climbers

1. The number of participants in a group should not exceed 4 people.
2. Initial bivouac — baranii lby on the Jalovchatsky Glacier.
3. Departure time from the bivouac — no later than 2:00 AM.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4: a) main rope — 2×40 m; b) expendable cordelette — 6 m; c) rock pitons — 10–12; d) ice screws — 2–3; e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 10; g) crampons — 4 pairs.
5. Possible bivouac sites: 1st — on the ridge after the first wall; 2nd — on the summit; 3rd — in the middle part of the wide couloir (prone to rockfall!).