1. Ascent to the summit Glavny Aksaut (3910 m) from the south — cat. diff. 2B

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Turye Lake, then along the trail and through the barany lby to the Dvuyazychny Glacier and along it (in ropes!) to the Jalovchat Pass. From Dombayskaya Polyana 6 hours.

From the pass down to the barany lby and through them to the Jalovchat Glacier. Then along the right-bank moraine and further along the Jalovchat Glacier in the direction of the Khamurza Pass, keeping to the left of the rocky outcrops, exit to the steep part of the glacier.

Up the steep slope of the glacier (crampons!):

• 300–350 m left-up,
• then 180–200 m right — up,
• exit under the western ridge of the Maly Jalovchat peak.

Further:

• traverse right 120–150 m to the rocks of the Maly Aksaut peak,
• crossing the bergschrund (protection!),
• left — up to the Khamurza Pass.

Exit to the pass along the inclined shelf on the right — left along the steep ice and snow gully. From Dombayskaya Polyana 11:12 hours.

From the Khamurza Pass down, first along steep rocks (protection!), then along the snowfield to the moraine and further to the right, bypassing the Maly Aksaut peak, to the snowfield. Exit to the snowfield and along it in the direction of the southern ridge of the Glavny Aksaut peak. From the snowfield along the couloir, ascent to the ridge and along it to the black gendarme.

Bypass the gendarme (protection!) on the left and further up along the shelves to the 4-meter wall. Bypass the wall on the left — up and further along the shelves to the big gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left (or right) along the shelves, exit again to the ridge and along it to the summit.

The path from the Khamurza Pass to the summit takes 6–7 hours. Descent along the ascent route to the Khamurza Pass — 5–6 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 6–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — on the Khamurza Pass or its southern side.
3. Departure time from the bivouac — no later than 5:00 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2 × 30 m; b) expendable reepschnur — 2 m; c) rock pitons — 3–4; d) ice pitons — 2; e) rock hammer — 1; f) carabiners — 7–8; g) crampons — 4 pairs.
5. Possible bivouac locations: 1st — below the Khamurza Pass on the trail; 2nd — above the big gendarme on the southern ridge of the Glavny Aksaut peak; 3rd — on the summit.