Sportive Characteristics and Selection of the Ascent Object

The area began to be explored in terms of alpinism in 1934. The peak Maly Aksaut has the following routes:

• a route of category 2B difficulty via the eastern ridge, described in F. Kropff's book "Western Caucasus", M.: FiS, 1962;
• a route traversed by the Odessa Regional Council of the "Avangard" sports society in July 1975, approximately category 3B difficulty.

No other data on ascents to the peak M. Aksaut was found.

Upon closer acquaintance with the area, the logical and objective safety of the route along the eastern counterfort was established, as well as its sportive attractiveness. This determined the object of the ascent.

Composition of the Sports Group

The group consisted of:

• Braer V.I. (leader), 1st sports category
• Markovsky O.V., Master of Sports of the USSR
• Zaitsev V.E., 1st sports category
• Voloshin A.P., 1st sports category
• Voloshina R.D., 3rd sports category
• Denisenko P.N., 1st sports category

Belonging to the same society, joint training in the city, and being accustomed to each other over several years in the Caucasus and in the Pamir, as well as training ascents and reconnaissance outings, made it possible to form a group of the indicated composition and successfully carry out the planned ascent.

Description of the Ascent and Table of Main Sections 2B via East Ridge

From the settlement Rudnichny, the path goes along the road to the mine. From the 24th hairpin bend of the road, a trail branches off to the right. Follow it, traversing the slope. The trail leads to a grassy valley, crossing which, it comes out under the shoulder of the ridge. The shoulder of the ridge is bypassed on the right or overcome directly along the trail.

From the shoulder, descend to the Dzholovchatsky glacier and go along the glacier to the "sheep's foreheads" on the right (orographic) bank of the glacier. Spend the night on the "sheep's foreheads".

From the night's halt:

• descend to the glacier;
• cross the glacier in the direction of the Khamurza pass;
• bypass the icefall under the slopes of the peak M. Aksaut on the left along the ice slope (section R0–R1);
• at the bottom, the counterfort slightly protrudes into the glacier (by 5–10 m);
• there are several bergschrunds on the glacier and near it.

Cross the snow bridges to a small plateau under a large bergschrund. Along the bergschrund, traverse to the right under the base of the pronounced eastern counterfort of the peak M. Aksaut. Under the counterfort, there is a small randkluft, which is easily crossed. In the lower part of the counterfort (150 m from the base), there is a wall with a steepness of up to 95° and a height of 10–15 m, with a lowering of 5 m to the right of the left edge of this counterfort. To the right of this wall, there are smooth slabs, clearly visible from the bivouac on the "sheep's foreheads". Exit to the rock shelf through a snow bridge. From the shelf, up and to the right, 10–15 m. Then up and to the right, leaving the large yellow wall on the right. Insurance through ledges. Several walls are traversed with piton insurance (section R1–R2). Then left and up to a lowering in the overhanging wall and up and to the right to the shoulder of the counterfort (section R2–R3). A small shelf leads to the shoulder of the ridge. From the rock shelf in the lower part of the route to the shoulder, there are 5 ropes (2–3 hours). From the shoulder, straight up along the ridge. Rocks of medium difficulty alternate with small walls and shelves (2–3 m) each. Small gendarmes are bypassed on the right down to the black belt. Below the black belt by 0.5–1 m, there is a shelf 1.5–2 m wide, on which there is a control cairn (section R3–R4). There is a place for overnight stays.

The summit ascent is bypassed on the right along the shelves with an exit to the ridge (section R4–R5). Then along the ridge, 50–60 m, there is an exit to the summit (section R5–R6). From the shoulder of the ridge to the summit, there are 13–15 ropes (2–3 hours).

Descent:

• Along the southeastern ridge, category 2B difficulty, to the Khamurza pass.
• From the pass, descend to the left along the shelves, then along the glacier down along the ascent path (4–5 hours).

The descent is prone to rockfall!

Arrival time at the bivouac near the "sheep's foreheads" was 16:00. The entire route was completed in 11 hours.

The ascent route to the peak Maly Aksaut via the Eastern counterfort.

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route