Софийский Западный

Report on the ascent of the SAK "Maximum" team to the summit of Sofia via the Northwest Slope and West Ridge, a Category 2A climb.

Report On the ascent to the summit of Sofia via the northwest slope and west ridge, category 2A complexity, by the team of SAC "Maximum", August 3, 2023. I. Ascent Passport | №№ | 1. General Information | | | :------: | :------------------------------------------------: | :----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Svitovoy Kirill Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Kozoderov Vasily Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank, Shkurenko Yulia Viktorovna, 3rd sports rank, Medalieva Zaira Aslanovna, 3rd sports rank, Chernov Stanislav Evgenievich, 3rd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Grebenyuk Alexander Viktorovich |

Description of the traverse of the peaks 60 let KChAO, Peshchera, Septemvri and Kelbesh in the Western Caucasus, difficulty category 3A, climbed in January 1982.

| Characteristic | Value | | :---------------------------- | :----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | CLIMB CLASS | traverse | | CLIMB AREA | Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, northern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the valleys of the Psyysh and Sofiya rivers | | PEAK ROUTE | 60 let KChAO, Peshtera, Septemvri (proposed by the first ascenders), Kelbashi | | ASSUMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY | 3A (winter) | | ROUTE DESCRIPTION | – Rock and snow, mostly ridge, absolute altitude difference 643 m | | NUMBER OF PITOONS | 12 | | NUMBER OF TRAVERSE HOURS | 12 hours (from the start of the route to the summit of Kelbashi) |

First ascent description of Sofia Peak via the Western Ridge, featuring a detailed route description, difficulty grading, and necessary equipment.

Description First ascent to v. Sofia via the western ridge, approximately category 3A. From the base camp, follow the left bank of the Sofia River (orographically) until the confluence with the Ak-Airy River. Then, move left and upwards along the left (orographically) bank of the Ak-Airy River to the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour of movement. The belt of "ram's foreheads" is bypassed from the right along a small stream. Then, move left across small meadows overgrown with rhododendron. After the meadows, move along the middle talus to the shoulder, beyond which lies the upper part of the Ak-Airy River valley. Here, there is a green, flat clearing with a stream of clear water nearby. A suitable location for the initial bivouac. From the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour. From the initial bivouac, move upwards along the Ak-Airy River across talus to the Ak-Airy glacier. The glacier ends in an icefall, which is bypassed from the right across a rocky outcrop. Then, ascend a snowy slope with a steepness of 35-40° - 150-200 m upwards, exiting onto the glacier. From the initial bivouac to the glacier exit - 1 hour of movement.

Description of the first ascent to the summit of Sofia via the eastern slope, category 2A, with a detailed analysis of the route and time spent.

DESCRIPTION First ascent to v. Sofia via the eastern slope and ridge, approximately category 2A difficulty. From the base camp, follow the trail used by Kislovodsk climbers to the Sofiyskiy glacier, emerging under the eastern slopes of v. Sofia – 4 hours. The route initially follows a diagonal ledge, from right to left, passing from "sheep's foreheads" to "sheep's foreheads". The approach involves a steep snowy slope with a gradient of 40–45° – 250–300 m, followed by a wide bergschrund. The "sheep's foreheads" are traversed with piton protection – initially 10 m straight up, then 60 m to the left with a gradual gain in height. Climbing is difficult. The group of six spends 2 hours on this section. After reaching the diagonal ledge, move along it to the left towards a couloir descending from the ridge – 45–60 minutes. Movement is with simultaneous protection. The ledge is snow-covered. Before the couloir, turn right at a 90° angle and climb onto a degraded rocky ridge. The rocks are moderately difficult, with movement on a full rope and simultaneous protection. The ridge has many protrusions that can be used for belaying. The ascent along the ridge takes 1 hour, after which you emerge onto a snowy slope with a gradient of 40–45°. This slope is traversed: initially 60 m up and to the left, then 30 m up and to the right, emerging onto the eastern ridge – 20–30 minutes.

Description of the traverse route of the peaks Pyatigorsk - Nadezhda 3A category of complexity in the area of the Sofiyskiy ridge in the Caucasus.

Fig. 35. North-west buttress, ridge and summit point of the peak Pyatigorsk with the ascent route (13). Photo by A. Runich. Fig. 37. The summit 1300 years of Bulgaria with its traverse route. Photo by A. Makushenko. Fig. 38. The summit Ak-Airy with its traverse route. Photo by A. Makushenko. Fig. 39. Sketch of the traverse of the Ak-Airy horseshoe. Part of the traverse from the beginning of the route to the saddle between the summits Pyatigorsk and 1300 years of Bulgaria (East Ak-Airy pass). Scale 1:5000. In the inset photos: a — view of the Ak-Airy horseshoe. Photo by B. Fedorov; b — on the dome of the Ak-Airy summit. Photo by A. Makushenko.

Description of the first ascent route to the peak "200 years of Pyatigorsk" (3398 m) in the Western Caucasus, category of difficulty 2A.

I. Climbing category — rock Climbing area — Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskiy ridge between the upper reaches of the Sofia and Psysh rivers. Peak, route — peak "200 years of Pyatigorsk" (proposed by the first ascenders), 3398 m, via the NW buttress and ridge. Estimated difficulty category — 2A 163 pr. 499 Route description — rock, via the buttress with a transition to the ridge, elevation gain — 590 m, average steepness — 40°. Pitons driven — 3 rock pitons for protection. Number of climbing hours — from the start of the route to the summit tower 4 hours (group of 6 people). Number of nights — not required on the route. Climbing leader: Zaporozhchenko E.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports

Description of the first ascent of the unnamed peak 3073 m ("Panagyurishte" peak) via the western spur, category 2B complexity, made in 1980 by a group from the Pyatigorsk Alpine Section.

Passport CLIMBING CLASS – rock climbing CLIMBING REGION – Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskiy Ridge between the upper reaches of the Sofiya and Psysh rivers SUMMIT – peak "Panagyurishte" (proposed by the first ascenders) 3073 m via the 3rd buttress ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS – rock climbing on the buttress, height difference – 240 m, average steepness – 45° PROPOSED DIFFICULTY GRADE – 2B PITS DRIVEN – 10 rock anchors for belaying and self-belaying TOTAL CLIMBING TIME – from the start of the route to the summit 3.5 hours NUMBER OF OVERNIGHTS – not required on the route CLIMB LEADER: Oleinikov N.P. – Candidate Master of Sports

Description of the first ascent of the peak "Meliator" (3055 m) in the Western Caucasus via a 2A category complexity route, made in 1981 by a group of Stavropol climbers.

ASCENT PASS ASCENT CLASS — rock ASCENT REGION — Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Soffiy Range between the upper reaches of the Sofia and Ak-Airy rivers PEAK, ROUTE — peak "MELIORATOR" (proposed by the first ascenders), 3055 m via the North couloir and East ridge PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 2A ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — combined, via a snow-ice couloir and a rocky ridge, height difference 460 m, average slope — 45°, ridge — 25° HOOKS DRIVEN IN — 3 ice screws, 2 rock pitons TRAVEL TIME — about 8 hours NUMBER OF NIGHTS — not required on the route ASCENT LEADER — Zaporizhchenko E.V. — Candidate Master of Sports, instructor

Description of traversing the ridge with ascents to the Kara-Jash and other peaks, complexity category 3.4, with illustrations and route excerpts.

Bugaratov Ksenets, Arasi, Valia Orgenei Vershye — 2006 (Kara-Dezhi N-E), Kara-Dezhi (3171), 3178 — 3201 (NRB), 3226 (Turgene, Denisphona) (3227) Route: "Tramers mershin 2006 (Kara-Dezhi N-E) — Kara-Dezhi (3171) 3178 — 3201 (NRB)" Krovec, Illyandota, 44 c.c. (Klaboporgonizsy) Photo from balia Orgenei — Third section promerce — route 3.4 c.c. passing the central part of the traverse — Kara-Jash — 3170 — 3201 (NRB)

A description of the 4A category climbing route along the Kara-Jash ridge in the Western Caucasus, with a detailed description of the path, obstacles, and necessary techniques.

Passport Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.1. Western Caucasus, mountain region — Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, mountain massif (ridge) Kara-Jash Names of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100») Heights of peaks: 2900–3171–3170–3201–3226 Route: traverse of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100») from north-east to south