DESCRIPTION

First ascent to v. Sofia via the eastern slope and ridge, approximately category 2A difficulty.

From the base camp, follow the trail used by Kislovodsk climbers to the Sofiyskiy glacier, emerging under the eastern slopes of v. Sofia – 4 hours.

The route initially follows a diagonal ledge, from right to left, passing from "sheep's foreheads" to "sheep's foreheads". The approach involves a steep snowy slope with a gradient of 40–45° – 250–300 m, followed by a wide bergschrund.

The "sheep's foreheads" are traversed with piton protection – initially 10 m straight up, then 60 m to the left with a gradual gain in height. Climbing is difficult. The group of six spends 2 hours on this section.

After reaching the diagonal ledge, move along it to the left towards a couloir descending from the ridge – 45–60 minutes. Movement is with simultaneous protection. The ledge is snow-covered.

Before the couloir, turn right at a 90° angle and climb onto a degraded rocky ridge. The rocks are moderately difficult, with movement on a full rope and simultaneous protection. The ridge has many protrusions that can be used for belaying.

The ascent along the ridge takes 1 hour, after which you emerge onto a snowy slope with a gradient of 40–45°. This slope is traversed:

• initially 60 m up and to the left,
• then 30 m up and to the right, emerging onto the eastern ridge – 20–30 minutes.

Further ascent along the severely degraded ridge leads to a scree-covered dome. From there, continue along the ridge to a sub-summit and then along a narrow ridge to the summit.

From the ridge to the summit takes 1 hour. From the base camp to the summit takes 9 hours. The descent follows the ascent route down to the glacier and takes 2 hours.