Report

on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhny via the Southwest Edge approximately 4B category of complexity by the team of Voronezh Region August 6, 2021

I. Climbing Passport

¹

Class — technical. 3. Caucasus. Dombay area. Gv. Dombay (4046 m) via South face, V. Korotkov's route. Climbing category 6A. Height difference 1040 m. Length 1580 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 69 degrees. Length of sections with V–VI category — 850 m. Pitons hammered:

• rock — 5/0
• ice — 4/0
• protection gear — 116/0
• slings on protrusions — 31/0. Climbing hours — 20. One bivouac lying down in a hollow under the summit buttress. Leader — Andrey G. Shvyrev, Candidate Master of Sports, 1st sports category. Team members:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — wall ascent
2. Ascent region — Western Caucasus
3. Ascent to v. Dombay Glavny via the southern wall (4046 m) category 6B complexity. Korotkov's route.
4. Wall section height difference — 800 m total route length — 1660 m section lengths:
   • category 6 — 220 m
   • category 5 — 720 m
5. Average steepness of the wall section — 70–80°

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Западный Домбай–Ульген via the western edge (approximately 5B cat. diff.) The ascent was made from August 17 to 20, 1973, by a group consisting of: V. Sukharev — leader V. Neborak A. Volkov Alibek — 1973 g.

Домбай–Ульген West

Fig. 41

2. Ascent to the summit of Yuzhny Dombay-Ulgen via the southern ridge with crossing Dombay and Ptysh passes — cat. 2B (see Fig. 40–42)

From Ptysh bivouac, up the moraine of Ptysh glacier (15–20 minutes) and left — towards Dombay pass. Ascend via the couloir (or its right side) and reach the eastern edge of Kruzhevoy glacier. Then:

• Ascend the snowy slope
• Ascend the wide couloir
• Traverse on the right side of the rocky ridge
• Reach Dombay pass — bivouac

Fig. 53

3. Traverse of the Dottakh-kaya — Bu-Ulgen massif (see Fig. 53–56)

From Dombayskaya polyana to the Northern shelter by car. From the Northern shelter, across the river Khokel via a log, to Chotcha polyana - bivouac. From the Northern shelter, 1 hour. From the bivouac, crossing the Chotcha gorge, to the right and further along the snows of avalanche depositions, approach to the first couloir on the slope of the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Through the couloir, exit to the "ram's foreheads" and further ascent to the eastern ridge descending towards the Northern shelter. Without reaching the ridge, traverse left into the cirque of a small glacier. Along the snowy slope of the cirque, diagonally upwards to a rocky outcrop, bypass the outcrop on the left and along a steep snowslope (belay!) - exit to the ridge. Then along the ridge and, bypassing a rocky outcrop on the left via a ledge, - exit to the saddle between the main ridge of Dottakh-kaya and the rocky outcrop. From the saddle, along the main ridge (steep rocks of medium difficulty, belay through outcrops, partly piton!) - exit to the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Further path to the Western peak of Dottakh-kaya is described in the traverse description of Dottakh-kaya.

Ascent to Kap Peak (3207 m) — Category 1B (Fig. 16)

From the "Alibek" hut along the trail to the glacier or from the bivouac near Turye Lake along the gentle part of the Alibek Glacier — approach to the far right couloir of the Kap Peak slopes. Up the couloir (rockfall hazard!) to the cirque step. There are three ascent options: 1st option:

• To the right along the snowfield into the couloir and along the slabs (belay!) left-up to the ridge.
• Then along the ridge (belay through outcrops!).
• The upper part of the ridge is scree.
• The red rocks of the forepeak are bypassed on the right, then again exit to the ridge and along it to the summit.
• The summit dome is snow-covered.
• The journey from the bivouac to the summit takes 5–6 hours.
• Descent via the ascent route — 3–4 hours.

REPORT

• on the ascent made in the area ch. Caucasian ridge and its spurs from Marukh pass to Pakhar pass to the summit of KAP PIK (3400 m) from the Belalakaisky glacier (from the north)

Group Members:

1. Slezyn Yu. — MS
2. Ovcharenko V.D. — 1st sports category
3. Pilipenko V.S. — 1st sports category
4. Volkov L.B. — 1st sports category

Bolshaya Marka

Fig. 11

Ascent to Bolshaya Marka peak (3768 m) - Cat. 1B (Fig. 11)

From Dombay plain, take the road to the "Alibek" alpine camp and continue on the trail to "Semidesyatitrekh" pass. The journey from Dombay plain takes 5-6 hours. From the pass, descend north down a steep snowy slope (ensure belaying!), then traverse scree and grassy slopes to reach a meadow in the Kiche-Teberda gorge. Set up a bivouac. The total time from Dombay plain is 8-9 hours. Continue by traversing a grassy slope (under the trigonometric point) upwards to the left, towards the western edge of the ridge. Then, proceed up a large scree slope into a hanging valley bounded by the southwest ridge on the right and the west ridge of Bolshaya Marka peak on the left. A high rock face is visible on the slope of the western ridge. Ascend the slope under the rock face, bypass it on the left, and continue up the slope to the northern buttress of the peak. Traverse scree to reach the col between the peak and a large gendarme. Then:

• proceed right-upwards along a rocky slope (weathered rocks!),
• reach the ridge,
• then traverse ledges to the summit.