Class — technical.
- Caucasus. Dombay area.
Gv. Dombay (4046 m) via South face, V. Korotkov's route. Climbing category 6A. Height difference 1040 m. Length 1580 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 69 degrees. Length of sections with V–VI category — 850 m. Pitons hammered:
- rock — 5/0
- ice — 4/0
- protection gear — 116/0
- slings on protrusions — 31/0.
Climbing hours — 20. One bivouac lying down in a hollow under the summit buttress.
Leader — Andrey G. Shvyrev, Candidate Master of Sports, 1st sports category.
Team members:
- Vladimir Yu. Epaneshnikov, Candidate Master of Sports
- Roman Yu. Gubanov, 1st sports rank, 3rd sports category.
Team coach — Vyacheslav A. Shipilov.
Approach to the route — August 18, 1999. Summit — August 19, 1999. Return — August 19, 1999. Team of AUSB "Alibek".
General photo of the summit.
- the route to Dombay Gv. via the south face climbed by the team.
- the route to Dombay V. via the south face. 55-degree slope.
Route description by sections
| Date | N sec. | Steepness, deg | Length, m | K/tr | Terrain character | Overcoming method | Pitons hammered |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 18.08.99 | R1 | 70 | 40 | V+ | Rock wall | Alternating free climbing | 5 |
| R2 | 75 | 40 | U+ | «—» | «—» | 6 | |
| R3 | 85 | 40 | VI | Steep slabs | «—» | 7 | |
| R4 | 90 | 40 | V+ | Inner corner | «—» | 5 | |
| R5 | 60 | 80 | IV | Steep slabs | «—» | 9 | |
| R6 | 70 | 40 | U– | «—» | «—» | 7 | |
| R7 | 80 | 30 | VI | Inner corner, chimney | «—» | 7 | |
| R8 | 80 | 100 | V+ | Steep slabs | «—» | 12 | |
| R9 | 85 | 40 | VI | Rock wall | «—» | 9 | |
| R10 | 90 | 40 | VI | «—» | «—» | 8 | |
| R11 | 75 | 40 | V+ | «—» | «—» | 5 | |
| R12 | 55 | 70 | III | Stepped rocks, ledges | «—» | 6 | |
| R13 | 60 | 120 | IV | Ridge | «—» | 8 | |
| R14 | 80 | 100 | V– | Steep ridge | «—» | 10 | |
| R15 | 90 | 40 | VI | Rock wall | «—» | 7 | |
| R16 | 90 | 40 | VI | Ledge, rock wall | «—» | 8 | |
| R17 | 45 | 300 | III–IV | Traverse with exit to a hollow, crossing the hollow | Alternating, simultaneous free climbing | 8 | |
| 19.08.99 | R18 | 85 | 60 | V+ | Steep ridge | Alternating free climbing | 3 |
| R19 | 75 | 40 | IV | Rock buttress | «—» | 3 | |
| R20 | 90 | 80 | VI | «—» | «—» | 6 | |
| R21 | 85 | 80 | V+ | «—» | «—» | 8 | |
| R22 | 45 | 120 | III | Ridge | Simultaneous free climbing | 5 |
Bivouac on the "green buttress".
Section R1. Start of the route.
Section R21. Summit ridge.
