Ascent to Kap Peak (3207 m) — Category 1B (Fig. 16)

From the "Alibek" hut along the trail to the glacier or from the bivouac near Turye Lake along the gentle part of the Alibek Glacier — approach to the far right couloir of the Kap Peak slopes. Up the couloir (rockfall hazard!) to the cirque step. There are three ascent options:

1st option:

• To the right along the snowfield into the couloir and along the slabs (belay!) left-up to the ridge.
• Then along the ridge (belay through outcrops!).
• The upper part of the ridge is scree.
• The red rocks of the forepeak are bypassed on the right, then again exit to the ridge and along it to the summit.
• The summit dome is snow-covered.
• The journey from the bivouac to the summit takes 5–6 hours.
• Descent via the ascent route — 3–4 hours.

2nd option:

• After exiting the couloir along the lower edge of the upper snowfield 280–300 m up, then right-up along the steep snowfield to the rocky inner corner.
• From the snowfield along the rocks right-up along the ledges of the grassy slope.
• From here left-up to the ridge (belay through pitons and through outcrops, rockfall hazard!).
• Further path follows the 1st option.

3rd option (recommended only for ascent):

• After exiting the couloir along the lower edge of the upper snowfield to the narrow steep ice-snow gully (steepness 55–60°, avalanche hazard!).
• Up it (belay!) to the upper snowfield.
• Then along the lower boundary of snow and rocks left-up to the steep couloir.
• To the right through the couloir (belay!) and exit to the saddle on the eastern ridge.
• Then along the steep rocks of the ridge up 80–90 m (belay!).
• Further between the eastern and southeastern ridges left-up exit to the southern ridge.
• Along the southern ridge — to the summit.
• The journey from the bivouac to the summit — 5–6 hours.
• Descent only by the 1st or 2nd option.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — "Alibek" hut or Turye Lake.
3. Departure time from the bivouac — 4:00–5:00, for the third option — 3:00 AM.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2 × 30 m; b) expendable rope — 2 m; c) rock pitons — 3–4; d) ice pitons — 2 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammer — 1; f) carabiners — 7–8; g) crampons — 4 pairs (for the third option).
5. Possible bivouac site — on the ridge.

Kap Peak