Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Rocky Ridge; Classification section number - 2.8.
2. Tbau (C-3) - 2980 m; via the southern wall of the North-West ridge.
3. Category 2A difficulty; first ascent.
4. Route type - rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain – 650 m. Approximate route length is 2300 m. Wall section elevation gain – 250 m. Steepness of key route sections up to 90°. Average steepness of the entire route – 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route - none.
7. Team's walking hours – 7, days – 1.
8. Team leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich – Master of Sports

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: 2.8: Caucasus: Kurtatin gorge
3. Peak, route: Tbau-khokh peak (2980 m): from the South via the chimney and the North-West ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A category of difficulty: first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, route length — 750 m, length of sections:

• 4–5 — 40 m
• 3 — 200 m, average steepness:
• chimney — 60°
• ridge — 45°

Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Rocky Ridge.
3. Peak, route: Tbaukhoh (3007 m), via the left part of the Southwest wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B–4A, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 600 m — including 400 m of actual wall climbing — total route length: 900 m — length of wall climbing: 450 m, including: — 35 m of 5th category complexity

Ascent log.

1. Ascent category: rock. 2.7.1
2. Ascent area: 2,8; Caucasus: Kurtatinskoye gorge.
3. Summit, route: Mt. Tbau-khokh (2980 m); via the Southwest wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A category; first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m; length — 1200 m. Section lengths: 6 — 50 m; 5 — 210 m; 3-4 — 330 m. Average slope: 40°; wall section: 60°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 34; chocks — 4; ice screws — none.
7. Number of climbing hours (days): 23 (2)
8. Number of bivouacs: 1st — on approach; 2nd — on the wall; 3rd — on descent.
9. Leader: Glazov A. P. – Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Rocky Ridge, section number 2.8 in the classification.
2. Tbau N-W 2980 m, via cornices on the South-West wall.
3. Proposed 5B category; first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 580 m (by altimeter and topographic map). Route length: 950 m. Section length:
   • 5 category – 52 m.
   • 6 category – 27 m.

Alpinist Sports Club "KASKAD"

Report

On the ascent to Tepli Glavnaya peak 4431 m from the Southwest by the couloir of the Western ridge, presumably 3B cat. diff. Variant of the route by A. ZyuziN. Tepli Glavnaya by the North-West ridge, 3B cat. diff., 1938, number in the classifier 2.8.85. Kirkitadze D.A. Dyakonov B.V.

Central Caucasus, October 2013

Climbing participants

1. Leader: Kirkitadze David Amiranovich, II sports category, Kambiileevskoe village. Address: Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, Kambiileevskoe village, Yuri Kuchiev St., 62. Phone: +7 961 822-28-22.
2. Participant: Dyakonov Boris Valerievich, II sports category, Beslan.

Peak Marshal Tukhachevsky (4020 m)

Via the Southeastern Ridge, Category III-B–IV-A

Peak Marshal Tukhachevsky (4020 m above sea level) is located in the high-mountainous Tepli group of the Lateral Ridge of the Central Caucasus. The peak is situated in the northern spur of Kolota (4168 m) between the "4010 m" peak to the south and the "4036 m" peak to the north, on the watershed of the Arkhon-Don and Tsazi-Don rivers. There is no information about ascents to the peak. A steep rocky ridge descends from the peak to the southeast, which was traversed during the first ascent by R.P. Proskuryakov's group in September 1971, made in honor of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet Guards. The path from Ordzhonikidze passes along the highway through the village of Dzuarikau and further along the Fiagdon River (Kurtatinskoye gorge) to the mouth of the Tsazi-Don River, a kilometer south of the highest village in the gorge, Kharischan. A high-clearance vehicle can drive through the village of Kharischan along the road to Arkhon Pass (Dzhimi North Pass), before which a dirt road, built by geologists, turns left into the Tsazi-Don gorge, which can save 1.5-2 hours of walking. For a kilometer, the trail winds along the right bank of the Tsazi-Don River, then crosses a bridge and continues along the left bank of the river to a dead end, past a small lake, through moraine rises - a total of 4-5 hours of walking to a convenient bivouac site in a wide hollow among the left-bank moraines near the Tsazi Glacier plateau (2900 m above sea level). Two campsites are laid out here, and a small lake is located nearby in a deep pocket between the moraines. To return to the bivouac on time, it's necessary to start the ascent no later than 4:00 AM.

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Tsatadon River gorge.
3. Peak 3664 m (Tsat); from Southeast via South Ridge.
4. Proposed — Category 1B difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 400 m, approximately 2 km long. Average slope along the route is about 30°.
6. Pitons driven:

   rock	chocks	ice screws	bolted pitons
   2	4	0	0

Description of the route condition to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B complexity. The nature of the route as of September 2015:

• snow-ice
• rock sections do not present technical difficulties.

Approaches

Get to the village of Verkhniy Koni, register at the border outpost (the summit is located in the border area, to make ascents you need to obtain a permit to enter the border zone in the established form, it's better to do this in advance), then go up to the village of Tmenikau, 2 km further up the gorge — there's a border post, this is the farthest point you can reach by car. From the border post:

• A gentle, wide trail (formerly a geological road) goes up the Genaldon gorge
• The trail leads to the warm mineral springs in front of the tongue of the Maili glacier
• This is where the base camp for ascents to Mt. Kazbek from the north is located
• There are places for tents and water

Skatikom

Skatikom (4450 m) is located in the Saudorosky ridge between Vologata to the west and the small first gendarme of the North-Eastern ridge of the Songuti peak in the Tseysky ridge to the east. The Eastern and Western ridges of Skatikom enclose the Karaugom plateau from the north. Skatikom's northern slopes:

• are heavily snowy
• steep From the Karaugom plateau side:
• more gentle
• destroyed

95. Skatikom (4450 m) via the Western ridge, Category 3B difficulty (A. Kharlampiev and 4