Skatikom

Skatikom (4450 m) is located in the Saudorosky ridge between Vologata to the west and the small first gendarme of the North-Eastern ridge of the Songuti peak in the Tseysky ridge to the east. The Eastern and Western ridges of Skatikom enclose the Karaugom plateau from the north.

Skatikom's northern slopes:

  • are heavily snowy
  • steep

From the Karaugom plateau side:

  • more gentle
  • destroyed
  1. Skatikom (4450 m) via the Western ridge, Category 3B difficulty (A. Kharlampiev and 4 Swiss climbers, July 12, 1934; V. Lubenets, D. Weisbland, A. Roshid, August 18, 1937).img-0.jpeg

Fig. 23. The path from the Tsey region's KSP or from the Dzinaga settlement (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bivouac peak is described in route 83. From the platforms, along the Eastern branch of the Karaugom plateau (closed crevasses), approach the saddle of the Western ridge of Skatikom peak. From the plateau, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend a steep 200–250-meter icy-snow slope, then via moraines on the ice, rise to the saddle, adhering to Skatikom's rocky slopes.

Here, turn right and exit onto the Western ridge of Skatikom. Further:

  • Traverse along the steep icy-snow slope along the rocks on the right side of the Western ridge (pitched protection) — ascent to its snowy shoulder.
  • From the shoulder, up along the snowy (cornices), местами острому, with rock outcrops, Western ridge.
  • Along the snowy, medium-difficulty rocks of the ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on (pitched protection), — ascent 300–350 m under a smooth 40-meter slab, which is passed along the rocks above medium difficulty along a crack on the left side (pitched protection).

From the slab, along snowy rocks of medium difficulty, ascend to the large Western — gendarme and descend from it 100 m along steep snowy rocks (pitched protection) to a saddle. Having passed the saddle, along the long icy-snow (cornices) Western ridge, ascend to the Skatikom peak. From the initial bivouac, 8–9 hours.

Descent via the Eastern ridge (see route 97). Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.img-1.jpeg

Vologata

Southwestern ridge

  • Eastern ridge
  • Sadonna
  • Eastern branch of the Karaugom plateau

Sources

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