ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Gissar Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Khodzha-Lokan, 4767 m, South Face.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1100 m, b) length of 5B difficulty sections — 525 m, c) average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons driven:

Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16. Recommended ascent route:

• Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16
• Photo 16. Section R17–R18. Rope descent. Photo 17. Entering the chimney R18–R19. Photo 18. Passing the chimney R19–R22.

Description

OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF KHODZHA-LOKAN /"MECHTA", 4767/ VIA THE SOUTH-EAST RIDGE. Dushanbe 1962 If you fly from Dushanbe to Moscow and the plane goes directly north, not through the Baysun pass, you can see this mountain. Soon after takeoff, the southern folds of the Hissar range appear below. The Varzob River is under the plane. Dark gray rocks line the stream's banks. Higher up, mountains rise. Among the rocks, patches of snow appear. Ice... To the left, a tall, slender mountain on an icy pedestal emerges. Like the surrounding lower peaks, it is mostly dark gray, but stands out from its neighbors with its elegance and the fact that a huge bluish snow-ice "cushion" is "hanging" on its northeastern side, clinging to its "tip". Climbers call this mountain Mechta... In 1897, while traveling through the Pamir-Alay and reaching the upper reaches of the Khanaka River, Academician LIPSKY V.I. saw this peak and made the following note: "From the pass ... a high snowy ridge was visible, much higher than the one we were on... The main peak of this ridge, significantly rising above the ridge, is conical..., sharply distinguished by its height". (LIPSKY V.I. "Mountain Bukhara. Results of three years of travel in Central Asia in 1897-1899." St. Petersburg, 1902, part 1, p. 126). This area began to attract the attention of mountaineers as the alpinism exploration of the Pamir-Alay began, particularly after the establishment of the Varzob alpine camp. In June 1953, during one of the reconnaissance hikes, a group from the alpine camp ascended to the summit of Bakhubi (Udal'naya-Tadj.), located on the watershed of the Sioma and Maykhura rivers. A participant in this ascent, now an alpinism instructor A.G. SHUKUROV, recounts that, looking at the panorama that opened up from the summit, with a beautiful pyramid in the center, the group leader A.A. KUZNETSOV exclaimed, "This is a dream!"

Report

on the ascent of the regional council's alpine team to Khodja Lokan for the championship of the Central Council

Time	Section	Steepness	Length	Character of the section	Category/Complexity	Objective condition	Belay means	Notes
9:10–10:30	R0–R1	40°	350 m	scree shelves, gently sloping smoothed rocks, small walls, snow-ice couloir	3	good	ledges, pitons (4)
10:30–11:30	R1–R2	60°	120–150 m	walls with shelves	4	good	pitons (6), free climbing, control, Tur-1
11:50–12:30	R2–R3	80°	15 m	smooth wall with a slot at the top	5Б	good	pitons (2), pitons

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS: technical
2. ASCENT AREA, RANGE: Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Khodzha Lokan (4767 m) via the Western part of the South face
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: approximately VI category of difficulty
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS:
   • ELEVATION GAIN: 1170 m
   • LENGTH OF COMPLEX SECTIONS:
     • III — 50 m
     • IV — 250 m

1. Climbing class — technical
2. Climbing area — Upper Siama, Gissar Range
3. Climbing route — via the South-Southeast buttress
   • peak Khodja Lokan — 4767 m
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1250 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 810 m
   • average steepness — 77°
6. Number of pitons: rock pitons for belay — 129

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Upper Siam, Gissar ridge.
3. Peak, ascent route — South-South-East buttress of Khodzha Lokan peak, 4767 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 860 m, average steepness of the wall part — 77°.
6. Pitons hammered:

130

II. Khosilot.

Description of the ascent from the West via route 1Б (Category III)

I. Approaches.

The approaches to the start of the route are similar to those for the Yaghnobskaya Stena (main peak) route. It's also possible to exit directly under the route.

II. Ascent (from the camp in the upper Kanyon).

Move in the direction of the western wall of the peak, exiting onto the ridge beneath it. Along the wall, descend 300 meters. Here, a wide fracture of the peak's massif ends in a narrow couloir. A waterfall cascades down from the peak's plateau. The ascent path is to the left (in the direction of travel) of the waterfall, via easy rock. Move simultaneously, but cautiously. After 1–1.5 hours, exit onto the plateau, in the eastern part of which, between two peaks, there is a connecting ridge, accessible via easy rock. From the connecting ridge, also on easy rock, move simultaneously. Descend from the peak via the ascent route. The ascent from camp to camp takes 7–8 hours. The first ascent was made in July 1971 by a group consisting of:

• Tkachev V.K., Candidate Master of Sports
• Kislov Yu., 3rd sports category

Description

Ascent from the north to p. Khosilot 2B cat. sl. and descent along route 1B cat. sl. I. Climbing Area. p. Khosilot (4650 m) is located in the Yaghnob Wall area.

• To the north, from the summit to the Ledovyy col between the Eastern peak of the Yaghnob Wall and Khosilot, lies a glacier.
• To the northeast, a steep ice-rock ridge descends into the Yaghnob river valley.
• To the west, a rocky ridge stretches, ending in 200-meter sheer cliffs.
• The southern slopes of the peak are more eroded and drop down with sheer walls and wide ledges to a nameless col.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent type — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Igizaki, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak — Khyrс, 3760 m, from Kulay Djavanom glacier via the shortest route.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 350 m, average steepness — 65°.
6. Number of pitons driven — 17,