Triangle — 5. "Orthodox"

Massif: Triangle (1000 m) Complexity: 6A, VI, A3+ Authors: E. Poltavets (Kharkov), A. Lavrinenko (Odessa) Year of creation: 2010 Length: 485 m Time to complete: 15–20 h Route description: The line passes through the central part of Triangle. The route is long, laborious, and minimally equipped with bolts. The rock is not monolithic everywhere. From the overnight stay, approach the wall and move left for 100 m. The route starts 50 m to the left of the start of route №6 "Druzhba" — the letter "D" on the wall. The starting point is marked by fresh collapse traces under the wall. R0–R1 45 m. Up a five-meter overhanging wall to the right. The terrain then becomes more manageable. Move left and up along a wide crack with a small tree. After 30 m, the crack turns right and disappears. On the wall, move left and up 8 m towards the inner corner to a bolt, then climb left into the corner. It's better to set up a station in the corner, under the protection of a ledge, as the second section has very crumbling rocks.

• 35 m V
• 8 m VI A3+
• 3 m V R1–R2 35 m. Without using the resonating plate on skyhooks, move right and up (3 holes), then up through crumbling terrain; there are two bolts. From the second bolt, move along a shelf to the left, then up 5–7 m through a crumbling corner. Station on personal anchors.

Triangle — 7. "Druzhba"

Massif: Triangle (1000 m) Complexity: 6А VI A3 Authors: A. Lav­ri­nen­ko, T. Tsush­ko, A. Kho­men­ko (Odes­sa) Year of creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 13 Length: 535 m Time to complete: 14–16 hours Route description: A long, laborious line in the central part of the wall. Interesting and varied climbing. There are sections of destroyed rocks, which is typical for the entire Triangle. From the bivouac, approach the wall and move left for 70 m. The starting point of the route is marked by the letter "Д" on the wall. R0–R1 40 m. Up a crack to a ledge with a small tree. Two meters to the left of the tree:

• under the eaves, there's a bolt (hard to see);
• under the eaves, a difficult traverse to the right into a washed-out groove;
• up the groove for 10 m to a small ledge, there's a bolt.

Triangle — 8

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko («Оде­ссит»), Odessa Pho­tos by Aleksey Zhilin Gora Treugolnik (Triangle Mountain, 1000 m above sea level) is located above the settlement of Parkovoe, 2 km west of Mar­che­ki. The wall has a western orientation, so it is almost invisible from the lower road. The wall's length in the central part is >400 m, height difference is >300 m. The best way to approach the wall is through the quarry. From the spring up the scree — 15 minutes to the wall.

Treugolnik — 11

Author: Alexander Zakolodny, Ukraine

New route on Treugolnik "Zvezdniy" 6B

The next day we climbed. But no, the championship rules put us in a situation where we had to climb "fast and light". And how can you climb fast when there's snow, rain, frost - so we had to spend the night stylishly, without a sleeping bag and with a bonfire.

To summarize:

The line turned out to be directive to the bastion.

• The complexity of some sections is really A3+ (maybe even A4). Very similar to the first ropes of Krizuk's route on Peak Odessa 4810 m.
• Danger - by my standards - is off the charts.
• Style - couldn't be easier.

Foros kant. Telezhenko, 2B cat. sl. A strong key rope requires the leader's ability to climb and belay on rocks not less than F 5 c–6 a. This means that if there isn't one, then it's better not to go. To fail to climb and abandon the route is one thing. To fall off and ... is another.

Forosskiy Kant — 5

On the right edge of the western part of the massif, 2B

From the alpinist camps under Forosskiy Kant, proceed about 250 m towards Baidarskie Vorota until a sharp turn of the road. If you go a little further, then, turning around, you can see the inscription "Тележенко" in the lower part of the sheer wall. The start of the main part of the route is to the right of this inscription. From the road turn, first along the trail, and Then up simple rocks to the right of the sheer wall to the middle of the counterforce, 10 m below a long and large crevice. There is a station on 3 rock hooks. (R0: 50 m,

By the Eastern Edge (ПК), 2B (V. Kozinogo route, 1973)

The route goes through a wide internal corner that vertically cuts through the entire wall. The internal corner leads to a lowering in the ridge between the peaks of Forosky Kant and Mshatka-Kaya and serves as a conditional boundary between them. From the road, near the alpinist camps:

• 200 m up along the trail
• then 50 m along simple rocks under a reddish overhanging wall located slightly to the right of the wide internal corner (R0: 250 m, 20–40, no category). On the R3–R4 section — first up the slab, and then up and to the right 20 m (R3–R4: 40 m, 70–60, II–III). On the final section of the route — first left and up 25 m to a small couloir. From it, up to a large, overgrown with bushes, couloir. Along it, 25 m up to the summit plateau (R4 — summit: 120 m, 50–60°, I–II). Variation: On the R1–R2 section — from the grotto up, first along the right side of the internal corner, and then along smooth slabs to a long horizontal shelf. (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III+). The length of the main part of the route is about 240 m. Time to complete the route is 2–3 hours. P.S. The full name of this route is not "Right Edge" as some people think, but "P — — — and kitten". This is not a literary name given by the first ascenders — Dnipropetrovsk students who got into trouble on this route.

Foros kant (600 m). 1. “Papa Carlo”

Massif: Foros kant (600 m), Grade: 3B, V Author: A. Kuzmenko, V. Razuvaev Year of creation: 2005 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 355 m Time to complete: 3–5 hours The route passes through a standalone bastion in the western part of the massif. It is logical but uneven. The crux pitch is clearly a "5" grade. The start of the route is at the base of the corner of the couloir that bounds the counterfort on the left. R0–R1 50 m. Up the couloir, then along the inside corner, exit to the right wall from the corner, and ascend to a ledge. There's a tree on the ledge, but it's better to set up a belay station on your own anchors above, just before the next pitch. 50 m III R1–R2 50 m. Up a crack, then along an inside corner; climbing is difficult, with 2 drill holes. At the top of the corner, traverse 5 m to the left and exit to a large tree via a crack. Belay station. (Crux pitch. The entire crack is suitable for medium and large-sized protection, including medium friends) (50 m V) R2–R3 30 m. From the belay station, move up and to the right into an inside corner. 5 m of challenging climbing in the corner, then it becomes easier - climb up to a tree. (5 m V, 25 m II–III)

Foros kant — 1. "Papa Carlo"

Massif: Foros kant (600 m); Grade: 3B, V; Author: A. Kuzmenko, V. Razuvaev; Year of route creation: 2005; Number of pitches: 7; Length: 355 m; Time to complete: 3–5 hours The route goes through a standalone bastion in the western part of the massif. Logical, but uneven. The key pitch is clearly "five". The start of the route is at the base of the corner - a couloir that limits the counterfort on the left. R0–R1 50 m. Up the couloir, then along the internal corner, from the corner move to the right wall, and exit to a ledge. There's a tree on the ledge, but it's better to set up a station on your own anchors above, under the start of the next pitch. 50 m III R1–R2 50 m. Up the crack, then along the internal corner, climbing is difficult, there are 2 drill holes. In the upper part of the corner - traverse 5 m to the left, and exit to a large tree via a crack. Station. (Key pitch. The entire crack is suitable for medium and large placements, and medium friends) (50 m V) R2–R3 30 m. From the station, up and to the right into the internal corner. 5 m of difficult climbing in the corner, then it becomes easier - climb up to a tree. (5 m V, 25 m II–III) R3–R4 50 m. Up through несложным internal corners to a ledge with trees. II R4–R5 50 m. Up to a ledge, then up, without going left, station on a large tree. III R5–R6 25 m. From the tree up along the internal corner, exit to a forested ledge. II

Foros kant — 7

Along the left side of the "green corner", 4a (20 m, V) (route by A. Brynza, 1991)

The western part of the massif and the most complex southeastern wall are separated by a large internal corner, descending from the summit plateau and called Green due to the moss covering it. The route starts at the base of the couloir, descending from the Green inner corner. From the alpine camps, walk about 150 m towards Baydarskie Vorota until the beginning of the ascent to the Green corner. From the road, start moving up the scree towards the steep wall. Having overcome a small wall, move right along the shelf to the large inner corner located on the