Steep Camera
Peak 4600 m via the North Ridge from
Shurovsky Glacier, 3A category of difficulty
August 9, 1969
- O. A. Shalya
- V. A. Martov
- G. L. Lorozhev
- N. Ivanov
From the assault camp on Shurovsky Glacier, move towards the snow-ice couloir descending from the saddle between the Siberian Peak summits. To the base of the couloir — 1 hour. The steepness of the couloir in its upper part is up to 40°.
Further:
- Gradually moving left towards the rocks, bypass the rocky "island" from the left and reach its upper part.
- From the rocky "island", continue moving along the narrowing couloir.
- Exit to the saddle via broken rocks.
The ascent through the couloir takes up to 1 hour.
Movement from the saddle to under the summit tower goes along the left side of the ridge — through несложным (easy?) rocks and snow, belaying via ledges and ice-rubble. In 1.5–2 hours — exit to the tower.
The tower is taken in its lower part, straight on, via a steep rocky ridge (40 m) and slabs with a steepness of 60–70° (10 m). Under the tower wall — a platform. From the platform, bypassing the vertical wall on the right, move along the internal angle (10 m, piton belay). Overcoming another wall (15 m), we exit to the summit ascent, which is traversed from the western side via несложным (easy?) rocks.
Time from the tower base to the summit:
- 2–3 hours.
Descent from the summit is described in the description of IIa.
The total time for the traverse is 7–9 hours.
Recommendations for climbers:
- Depart no later than 7:00.
- Pitons: 3 ice, 6 rock.