From the overnight stay 3–4 ropes along the snowy slope of the gully, separated from the main slope by a section of rocky ridge. One rope on a 35° snowy slope along the gully, then exit to rocks (belay via ice axe). On the ridge, movement along the ledge on the left with piton belay at the beginning of the path! (after one rope of difficult rocks — exit back to snow). 40 m along the snowy ridge — exit to difficult rocks: chimneys 40–50° (in the upper part of the chimney — yellow rocks). The chimney is traversed with thorough piton belay.

After the chimney, one rope of easy rocks with a 20-meter slab, then broken, snow-covered rocks and a gully with flowstone ice and loose stones. Belay is difficult to organize.

Above the gully:

  • 2–3 ropes of the path upwards along the snowy (in the upper part — icy) ridge;
  • exit to the junction of the northeastern counterfort and the eastern edge.

Exit to the eastern edge:

  • 20 m of steps with chopping;
  • belay via ice and rocky outcrops;
  • from the overnight stay — 4–6 hours.

Through the breaches and destructions of the eastern edge (cornice), one rope to the entrance to the gully formed by the rocks of the southeastern counterfort and the eastern edge.

Beware of rockfall!

Along the rocks on the right (in the direction of travel) side of the gully:

  • Two ropes on snow,
  • Then to the right onto rocks.

Further:

  • 20 m along red-yellow rocks,
  • Exit to the sharp ridge (cornice on the right) of the eastern edge — one rope.

Along the ridge, movement upwards, then descent into a three-meter pass and ascent along yellow rocks (belay via outcrops!) onto a snow-covered ridge.

Along it — 2 ropes on snow.

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Sources

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