1. Peak "25 lat PRL" - 5207 m - via "Biały Koń" mandala 5A category

July 24, 1969. Kazimierz Głazek, Tadeusz Pióro, Krzysztof Cieluszeck, Bogdan Jankowski

From "Polskie Namioty" (for the route description to "Polskie Namioty" see the section) - ascent via "Biały Koń" mandala (through snowy-icy fields on the left ridge - 2 ropes on thin snow and 1 rope on ice) - exit to the rocky ridge. Climb 40 m to the top of the mandala on shattered rocks with flow ice. Then a sporting descent to the saddle behind the mandala.

From here:

  • two ropes on a shattered rocky ridge with flow ice (steepness up to 70°),
  • a small ascent with the use of étriers,
  • then 50 m to the next ascent on a similar ridge,
  • traverse right and ascent on an almost sheer icy wall (live rocks) about 20 m upwards,
  • then 30 m of icy slabs with steepness up to 45° under a big ridge ascent.

On the left, the ridge drops with vertical rocky walls to the Akterek Glacier, on the right of the ridge - icy slabs with steepness up to 50°.

On the slabs, beware of slipping: right upwards 20 m, then straight up about 70 m - cutting steps in the flow ice. Further:

  • 100 m of practically horizontal ridge
  • last 100 m of snowy-icy ridge with steepness 30°, which leads to the summit

The length of the ridge from "Polskie Namioty" to the summit is about 700 m

Descent via the ascent route to "Polskie Namioty", then to the Akterek Glacier and through Ivanov's Pass - to the glacier.

Sources

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