Rocks of medium difficulty, in some places it is necessary to use iron belay.

The first pronounced gendarme is bypassed on the left along inclined shelves, then movement continues along the ridge.

The second gendarme is bypassed on the right along a snowy-icy couloir with rocky exits, then movement continues along the right side of the ridge.

The col - before the third gendarme is traversed (stonefall hazard, iron belay).

From the col, descend down to the left side of the ridge: one rope on difficult rocks into a rocky-icy couloir.

Cross the couloir, exit onto a snow patch to the left of the third gendarme.

From the snow patch, down difficult rocks (chimney) - one rope down and along a snowy-icy slab to the foot of the third gendarme.

Up the snowy-icy slab and the col between the third gendarme and the summit (stonefall hazard).

From the col, exit into a wide couloir located to the right of the summit.

Up the couloir to the pre-summit ridge - rocks of medium difficulty.

Then along a relatively easy ridge to the summit.

Descent along the ascent route to the col between the third gendarme and the summit. Then down the main slope and icy slopes to a null pitch, exiting onto the Purgolsky Glacier. Stonefall hazard in some places.

The route takes 8-10 hours.

Recommendations for climbers:

1. Departure at 7:00 am.

2. Equipment for a group of 4 people: stretcher - 1, rock pitons - 6, ice axes - 2, ropes - 2.