Chkalova, 1B cat. diff. from the west

Route description.

From the Chimbulak ski resort, ascend to the Talgar Pass. In the southeast direction, beyond the tongue of the Bogdanovich Glacier, the hanging Til Glacier is visible. Follow the trail between Shkolnik Peak (on the right) and a rocky outcrop (on the left) to reach the glacier, and, crossing it, approach the rocks to the left of the Til Glacier. After traversing about 50 meters across the "ram's foreheads," reach an inclined ledge. Follow the ledge to reach a scree couloir, and ascend it to a snowy plateau. Cross the plateau in an easterly direction and approach a couloir descending between the summit and the ridge. Moving up the couloir (avalanche risk!), reach a narrow couloir branching off to the left. Enter this couloir and ascend, turning right. Continue up moderately difficult rock terrain to reach the summit. Descend via the ascent route.

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants: 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac at Talgar Pass.

I. Ice and snow class 2. Central Tian-Shan, Inylchek ridge 3. Peak "5581" (Dobroĭ voli) via the direttissima of the North face 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B, first ascent 5. Height difference: 1500 m, main section length: 1900 m, sections with 5-6 category of difficulty: 1250 m, average steepness of the main section: 60.5° (4000-5500 m), out of which 6 category of difficulty: 450 m, 75° (4250-4750 m) 6. Pitons used:

7. Climbing hours — 27, days — 3

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range.
3. p. Korona, 5th Tower, 4860 m, center of the NW wall.
4. Proposed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 650 m,
   • length — 930 m,
   • length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 700 m,
   • average steepness of the route — 67°,

Ascent Passport

to p. Medik 4437 m. First ascent I. Climbing class — combined 2. Ascent region — Kyrgyz ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Summit p. Medik, height 4437 m along the ridge, ridge route 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 650 m (from the upper plateau of l. Golubina), length of sections III cat. diff. — 160 m, the rest — II cat. diff., average steepness — 42° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 8 (0); ice — 8 (0) 7. Number of walking hours — 10

REPORT

On the first ascent of a group of climbers from Kaliningrad, Moscow Region, to the unnamed peak 4740 m from the ridge (Peak Kaliningrad, route category 2B)

Location: Tian-Shan, western part of the Kok-Shaal-Tau ridge, Chon-Tura-Su gorge area Date: Group composition:

1. Kremena V.P. — leader, Candidate Master of Sports
2. Kurshin A.P. — participant, Candidate Master of Sports 1st rope
3. Glazchenko V.I. — participant, Candidate Master of Sports
4. Okhrimenko S.V. — participant, Candidate Master of Sports

Peak Kabalchicha (5450 m)

(approx. 4A cat. dif.) CC.3. From the "Researchers" glacier turn left onto the "Koroleva" glacier, which is quite steep (30–35°), with a lot of clean ice, sticking to the right side as you move, we come out onto an ice plateau, climbing in crampons. Insurance on individual sections is hook-type, screw-in ice hooks tested during training sessions were used. From the glacier, climb to the left along destroyed and icy rocks, along sheer walls, to a snowy-ice couloir, insurance using ledges. This section was covered in 5 hours in bad weather. The couloir is 30–40° steep, местами purely icy, insurance is hook-type, walk in crampons, the ascent takes 4 hours. In the upper part, the couloir ends with a wall (5–6 m) heavily destroyed, steep and covered with snow, the first one passes by climbing, using footholds, 2 rock hooks are hammered in, the rest with top rope insurance on a hung rope. The ascent took 1.5 hours. Exit left onto a snowy slope with a steepness of 25–30° (insurance on 2 ropes through an ice axe, then simultaneous movement), 400 m to the pre-summit ridge. The ascent to the summit along the snowy ridge is quite simple (there are cornices on the right). Descent along the ascent route. By the end of the day, there was even more ice in the couloir, the descent took 4 hours; 8 rock and 15 ice (screw-in) hooks were hammered in.

Recommendations for climbers

Given the harsh climate of the region, it is possible to depart from the last green bivouac at 11:00, there will be enough time until 19:00 to cover the distance to the snowy-ice couloir, where under an overhanging rock in a snowy hollow you can organize an excellent bivouac, two tents can be set up. Cross the couloir only early in the morning, as in the afternoon it is dangerous due to:

• rocks,
• icefalls,

70 Kungey Ala-Too Range Northern Tien Shan

Choktal Massif 2nd Eastern Peak

• 4771 m
• Choktal Massif
• Category 3B difficulty Description compiled by: Kholodniak A.M. General information about the climbing area: the Choktal massif is the highest point of the Kungey Ala-Too range in the Northern Tien Shan. Being far from major alpine camps, the area is rarely visited by climbers. The first attempts to explore this area date back to 1937, when three alpine instructors climbed the 2nd Western peak via the Eastern ridge. The second attempt was made in 1950, when a DSO "LOKOMOTIV" expedition led by Chekmarev visited the Choktal area. The participants of this expedition conquered:
• the 2nd Eastern peak via the Western ridge;

Kungey Ala-Too Range

Northern Tian Shan

Choktal Massif

Peak 2nd Zapadnaya (West) 4771 m. Route 4A cat. diff. From glacier 2 V. Dzhindyku and then along the E. ridge Description compiled by Kholodniak A.M.

To the Chairman of the Presidium of the Alpinism Federation of the Kirghiz SSR

Comrade Smirnov Yu.N. From the participants of the traverse of the "Choktal" massif Comrades Buryak V.N., Aksenov V.A., Lengnik O.M.

Petition

In 1962, a sports group led by Naumenko I.M. completed a traverse of the "Choktal" massif, category 5B. The group followed the route with some deviations from the original route due to the lack of a complete and detailed description. In connection with this, the group made independent decisions on the choice of path in certain sections of the traverse. The group members removed notes from all the peaks of the massif and control tours. In the group's opinion, the deviations made from the classified route do not affect its category of difficulty. When reviewing the group's traverse, the commission (chaired by Rotataev N.S.) proposed that we compile a detailed description of the route taken and consider it at the Presidium of the Alpinism Federation of the Kirghiz SSR. In this regard, the group petitions for the classification of the route taken and consideration of the traverse results. October 20, 1962.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: