Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir, North Shugnan Ridge
3. Peak — Marsh Mira, 5170 m, via the northern ridge, combined
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 475 m, average steepness of the ridge — 55°, length of sections of 3rd cat. diff. — 165 m, 4th cat. diff. — 210 m, 5th cat. diff. — 65 m.
6. Pitons driven: | | for belay | for standing pitons | | :------------ | :------- | :------------------ |

I. Class of ascent	— technical
2. Region of ascent, ridge	— West. Pamir, Shugnansky Ridge
3. Peak, height, ascent route	— peak 5190, Krasno, northeast
4. Proposed category of difficulty	— 6B
5. Characteristics of the route:
elevation gain	— 1250 m
length of sections 5–6 km	— 790 m
average steepness	— 75°
6. Pitons hammered: for belay	for creating RPS

4.13.136

SOUTHWESTERN PAMIR NORTH SHUGNAN RANGE Peak 40 let Chelyabinskogo politekhnicheskogo instituta im. Leninskogo komsomola (5070) First ascent route, category 3B, via the N wall, ice and snow. KARPENKOV M.V., SITCHIKHIN YU.V., SMIRNOV M.G., VAKHITOV T.K. August 16, 1983 450 m, 45°, III, 220/II, 160/16, 28 rope ladders 6 hours

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF PEAK 4900 VIA THE EAST RIDGE

SOUTH-WESTERN PAMIR

NORTHERN SHUGNAN RANGE a/l "VARZOB" Leader: KOSTRICHENKO V.V. Participants: VESELOV A.N. NICHIPORENKO A.N. TRONOV Y.N. BELINSKY S.F. SENTSOV S.K.

II. Ascent Record of Pograni­chnik Zabaykalya Peak, 3601.7 m, via the Southern Slope.

1. Al­tai, Chi­kha­chov Ridge, section 1.7.
2. Pograni­chnik Zabaykalya Peak, 3601.7 m, via the Southern Slope.
3. Proposed category 1B difficulty. First ascent.
4. The route is of snow and ice character.
5. Route characteristics:

• Elevation gain 500 m
• Length 1000 m
• Average slope angle 25°

6. Pitons used: ice screws — 1,

Bogatyr (4616 m)

1. Ascent to the North summit from the north.
2. Traverse of the Bogatyr — Kolesnik (4510 m) peaks from north to south. Ascent to the North summit from the north, category 3B route (fig. 11). The massif of Bogatyr peaks is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, in the upper reaches of the central branch of the same-name glacier, approaching it from the east. The northern and northwestern slopes of the massif descend towards the Pioner glacier, flowing into the Left Talgar valley. The entire massif is snow-ice, with rocks only in the uppermost part. The massif has three peaks:

• North — 4570 m

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge 3. Peak — traverse with ascent via the left glacial couloir of the Western wall of Glavny Talgara — South Talgar

• height — 4973 m
• route type — ice-snow

4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 1000 m
• length of sections 4–5 difficulty category — 580 m
• average steepness of the route — 50°

Talgar (SE)

Brief geographical location and sports characteristics of the object. The unnamed peak with a height of 4600 m, or now known as peak "Daugava" as named by the Latvian national team after their ascent, is located in the North Tien Shan, in a spur branching off to the northwest from the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. In this spur, situated south of the Talgar massif and separating the Kroshka glacier and North Talgar, there are two peaks:

• peak "Trud"
• peak "Daugava" The northwest slope of peak Daugava drops to the north as a steep wall. Bounded on both sides by large icefalls, it presents three separate walls and several difficult-to-overcome sections in the middle part of the route. The northwest slopes are hardly ever exposed to sunlight and are battered by strong winds. As a result, there is a lot of ice on the route, and in the upper part, a lot of loose snow covering both ice and rocks. The height of the wall is 950–1050 m.

Characteristics of the area

The North Tien Shan is characterized by an abundance of snow and ice, resulting in many snow, ice, and combined routes. The action of glaciers is very pronounced. There are many moraines that block the path and hinder approaches. As a result of intense melting, the water level in rivers changes significantly. This factor must also be considered when planning ascents. The best time of year for sports ascents is considered to be July–August, although exceptions can occur. The group was based in the Talgar mountaineering camp, located in the Middle Talgar gorge, 43 km from Almaty. From the transshipment base to the camp is a 9 km pack trail. Furthermore, most approaches from the camp to the ascent objects take one day's journey. The approach to peak Daugava took 6 hours.

Reconnaissance work

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent category — high-altitude technical climb.
2. Region — central Tian-Shan mountain range.
3. Peak — Nansen Peak, 5697 m, via the North Ridge, combined route.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2850 m, length of R5 section — 700 m, average slope — 55°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 66 pieces, ice — 55 pieces.
7. Total climbing hours — 36.
8. Team leader — Oleg Matveevich Solovei, Candidate Master of Sports; team members: Valery Kuzmich Otchik, Candidate Master of Sports; Vasily Mikhailovich Tereshkovets, 1st sports category; Valery Ivanovich Petko, Candidate Master of Sports.

Passport

1. Winter category
2. Central Tien-Shan, Engilchek valley
3. Peak Nansen via Northeast ridge
4. Proposed 5B category of complexity, first ascent
5. Height difference 2847 m, length 3130 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 30.5°
6. No hooks were left on the route. No previously driven hooks were found
7. Team's climbing hours: 23 hours to the summit. Total 37 hours. Days - 4.
8. Nights spent - 4 in tents.
9. Leader: Manulik Alexander Gennadyevich, Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: Mikhailov Mikhail Mikhailovich, Master of Sports, Puchinin Andrey Albertovich, Candidate Master of Sports, Akimov Vitaly Vladimirovich, 1st sports category