Bogatyr (4616 m)

1. Ascent to the North summit from the north.
2. Traverse of the Bogatyr — Kolesnik (4510 m) peaks from north to south.

Ascent to the North summit from the north, category 3B route (fig. 11).

The massif of Bogatyr peaks is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, in the upper reaches of the central branch of the same-name glacier, approaching it from the east. The northern and northwestern slopes of the massif descend towards the Pioner glacier, flowing into the Left Talgar valley. The entire massif is snow-ice, with rocks only in the uppermost part. The massif has three peaks:

• North — 4570 m
• Main — 4616 m
• South — 4554 m

To the south of Bogatyr peak is the Kolesnik peak — 4510 m.

The approach route to Bogatyr peaks is via the glacier of the same name, along one of its branches — Shuitsa glacier and further through MYuD pass. Along the Shuitsa glacier in the southwest direction, the moraine is reached at the foot of MYuD pass. Here are convenient areas for organizing an overnight stay.

From MYuD pass, go along the snow slope along the ridge in the southern direction. Traverse a small snow dome of the Svyazist peak in the upper part and exit onto the saddle between Svyazist and North Bogatyr peaks. Move in rope teams. From the overnight stay location to the saddle is 2.5–3 hours of walking.

The ascent to the North Bogatyr peak begins along the snow ridge, leading to a steep (up to 70°) ice slope. Crampons, step cutting, and piton protection (2–3 ice screws) are required to overcome this section. The further path goes along the snow ridge with steep drops (!), with variable protection.

The peak is a snow dome with steep slopes. To the southwest are rocks, where a cairn is located. From the saddle to the peak is 1.5–2 hours of walking.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac at the foot of MYuD pass.
3. Departure from the initial bivouac no later than 4 am.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main ropes; b) 4 m rappel rope; c) 3–4 ice screws; d) 2 hammers; e) 3 carabiners.