REPORT

ON COMPLETING THE TRAVERSE OF SOUTHERN USHBA – NORTHERN USHBA 6A DIFFICULTY LEVEL BY THE TEAM FROM NIU MGSU FOR THE PERIOD from August 28 to September 2, 2023 Route "Krasivyy" 2023

1. Climbing Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Leader's Full Name, Sports Rank	Prostakishin Dmitriy Aleksandrovich

Ascent Log

1. Class — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ushba South, 4710 m via the right part of the SW wall
4. Difficulty category — 6B
5. Elevation gain — 1465 m (by altimeter); length — 2000 m; length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 140 m; length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 355 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (pillar) — 81°
6. Pitons driven: rock, chocks, ice, bolt: | 12*+6 | 43 | 13 | 58* | | :-------------------------------------: | :-: | :-: | :-: | | 4 | 32 | 0 | 34 |

344029, Rostov-on-Don, 1st Cavalry Army St., "Planet" club, A.G. Pogorelov

Ascent Log

1. CLASS — technical
2. ASCENT AREA — Central Caucasus
3. OBJECT OF ASCENT — Ushba South and North with ascent via the right part of the southwest wall 6B cat. diff. (Kustovsky's route)
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 6B
5. HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1450 m
6. DISTANCE — about 3000 m
7. PITONS DRIVEN: ROCK — 136/44

1966 Photo 1. Approach to the wall from the base camp. Sections R1–R3. The Ushba massif is well-known. It is located in a popular, well-studied mountaineering area. In the last decade, climbers have worked hard to develop the harsh Ushba walls, making a series of new top-class routes. However, the possibilities for interesting first ascents on Ushba are not yet exhausted. The team of the Armed Forces of the USSR declared and passed a route on the Eastern wall of South Ushba. This path attracted the attention of the army climbers back in 1959 during the ascent to the peak via the north-eastern wall. The route was studied carefully for a long time. This path is logical and the only one. Passing along the protruding part of the wall, it is sufficiently protected from rockfall. The presence of two belts of steeply inclined terraces on the wall allowed for planning convenient overnight stays in advance. The route can be conditionally divided into four major parts: three powerful steep rock climbs and the summit ridge. On the climbs of the wall, a large number of difficult sections were expected, predominantly:

• smooth overhangs;

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Central Caucasus
3. Peak Chatyn Main — 4368 m, "по ромбу" North wall (route by L. Myshlyaev)
4. 6B category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 770 m, length — 880 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 83° (3600–4040 m), including 6B cat. diff. — 95° (3825–3860 m; 3935–4030 m)

Passport

1. Class — technical.
2. Central Caucasus. 2.4
3. Chatyn Glavny (4368 m), via the diamond-shaped section of the North Face.
4. Difficulty category: 6A.
5. Height difference of the wall section of the route — 770 m. Length — 1200 m. Average slope of the main part of the route — 80°. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 580 m.
6. Pitons left on the route:

G. Agranovsky + 3 (19747)

14/VII. Gerka woke me up. Bouillon, tomatoes, and tea in the hall. We saw G. Solovyov, B. Talanov, and Lusya Agranovskaya off. We accompanied them to the outskirts. Clear and cool. Good mood. 5 am. On the trail, various memories come to mind… Under the glacier between І and П Zapadnaya - tea time. We leave at 10:30. At 1 pm - on the plateau under the route. Camp and plenty of food. The further path (Ovcharov V., 40 c.t.) to І Zapadnaya goes:

• across the plateau to a steep and wide avalanche slope located on the left side of the Northern wall of Shkhelda Zapadnaya peak;
• up the steep snowy slope of the avalanche (falling rocks!) bypass the crevice on the right and move up along the wall rocks to the stream;
• 8–10 m up the "ram's foreheads" along the stream;
• then 30–40 m across rocks of medium difficulty to the right onto a small site… We clearly see Ovcharov's path but prefer to exit to the northern counterfort of І Zapadnaya. On the right, through a wide snow-ice couloir. We don't have crampons (they are on the Ushba plateau), but it's worth trying the slope. The snow is dense. Steps are beaten perfectly - and in an hour Valentin and I reach the ridge. We'll go here tomorrow! We return to the tent where German and Alik are waiting for us. Tea. And here's the first night in a four-person sleeping bag - surprisingly spacious. 15/VII. We leave at 5:00. Valentin and I are first. Exiting onto the ridge along yesterday's tracks, we see that Gerka and Alik are also leaving the couloir - it's almost sunny. At 1 pm, difficult rocks begin - our backpacks are still very heavy, over twenty kilos.

256

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Shkhelda-Tau II Western, 4310 m via the center of the southern wall, made by the team of alpinist camp "Shkhelda" of the sports society "Spartak" consisting of:

Name	Rank	Society	Role
Drobot S.Yu.	Candidate Master of Sports of the USSR	"Spartak"	team captain
Shamaev I.A.	Candidate Master of Sports of the USSR		—"—
Odegov Yu.N.	1st class		—"—
Veziier A.E.	Candidate Master of Sports of the USSR		—"—
Gritsenko V.N.	Candidate Master of Sports of the USSR		—"—

Report

On the Third Ascent of the Route to the Summit of Khelda (2nd Zapadnaya) via the South-West Wall (V. Kuznetsov's Route)

Alpinist Camp "Adyl-Su" 1978

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route to the Summit 2nd Zapadnaya Shkhelda

№	Section	Average Steepness, °	Length, m	Terrain Characteristics	Difficulty Category	Condition	Weather Conditions	Rock Pitons	Ice Pitons	Bolts	Notes
	R0–R1	35–40	50–60	Snow Slope	1	Firm Snow	Good	Natural Features
	R1–R2	55	120–130	Ledges	2	Snowy	"	8
	R2–R3	80	45	Rock	4–5	Monolithic	"	3

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: