Time expenditure: 5 hours. VTSSPS-600 у-8°00' summit — 1200

G. Agranovsky + 3 (19747)

14/VII. Gerka woke me up. Bouillon, tomatoes, and tea in the hall. We saw G. Solovyov, B. Talanov, and Lusya Agranovskaya off. We accompanied them to the outskirts. Clear and cool. Good mood. 5 am. On the trail, various memories come to mind… Under the glacier between І and П Zapadnaya - tea time. We leave at 10:30. At 1 pm - on the plateau under the route. Camp and plenty of food. The further path (Ovcharov V., 40 c.t.) to І Zapadnaya goes:

• across the plateau to a steep and wide avalanche slope located on the left side of the Northern wall of Shkhelda Zapadnaya peak;
• up the steep snowy slope of the avalanche (falling rocks!) bypass the crevice on the right and move up along the wall rocks to the stream;
• 8–10 m up the "ram's foreheads" along the stream;
• then 30–40 m across rocks of medium difficulty to the right onto a small site… We clearly see Ovcharov's path but prefer to exit to the northern counterfort of І Zapadnaya. On the right, through a wide snow-ice couloir. We don't have crampons (they are on the Ushba plateau), but it's worth trying the slope. The snow is dense. Steps are beaten perfectly - and in an hour Valentin and I reach the ridge. We'll go here tomorrow! We return to the tent where German and Alik are waiting for us. Tea. And here's the first night in a four-person sleeping bag - surprisingly spacious. 15/VII. We leave at 5:00. Valentin and I are first. Exiting onto the ridge along yesterday's tracks, we see that Gerka and Alik are also leaving the couloir - it's almost sunny. At 1 pm, difficult rocks begin - our backpacks are still very heavy, over twenty kilos.

n KAMOHCK-YPR.ABCKUH 5050 Aeroplane n 5400 5833 Route 2 Wtyrmaвoú noзерь Route category 5400 Object name 25. 15. Bero-uey 76 600,40',20,-12, 15 B. 5pabepuain T. Kozack A. Cyбopкина, B. Tpuyoreeba

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka — a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

V. Chernaya Neznakomka 4100 2 Sept. 4040 m 1 Sept. 3460 m 2800 m 0

2. Pik XX syezda KPSS

А ночевки • kontr. tur

From camp 4–5 August 7, 1984 5100 August 6 4400 1103 camp 4–1 August 5, 1984 4000 3 camp. 4–61 3250