Ascent Log

1. Class — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ushba South, 4710 m via the right part of the SW wall
4. Difficulty category — 6B
5. Elevation gain — 1465 m (by altimeter); length — 2000 m; length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 140 m; length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 355 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (pillar) — 81°
6. Pitons driven: rock, chocks, ice, bolt:

* — reuse of previously driven pitons

left on the route: rock — 0, chocks — 0, ice — 0, bolt — 0.

7. Team's climbing hours: 36 h, days — 4

8. Overnights:

   • 1st bivouac on the "Georgian Shelf"
   • 2nd bivouac, built from stones near the control cairn
   • 3rd bivouac near the "Red Corner"

9. Team leader Muralev Alexey Nikolayevich, Candidate Master of Sports, Moscow, Chicherina 18/2, apt. 1231

Team members:

• Galinov Marat Marsovich, Master of Sports
• Sinyushin Nikolay Gennadievich, Candidate Master of Sports
• Slepnev Pavel Ivanovich, Candidate Master of Sports

10. Coach Tinin Yuri Pavlovich, Candidate Master of Sports, Moscow, Svobody 93, apt. 183

11. Departure on the route:

• departure from the Elbrus Training Center — July 13, 1996
• departure on the route from the camp on the Ushba glacier moraine — July 16, 1996
• summit — July 19, 1996
• return to the camp on the Ushba glacier moraine — July 20, 1996
• return to the Elbrus Training Center — July 22, 1996

12. Organization name — FAIS Moscow; Moscow, Markhlevsky st., 18.

.... Myshlyaev's route 6A — Kustovsky's route 6B

Team's Tactical Actions

Upon approaching the route on the Ushba glacier moraine, a base camp was established. Two observers were stationed there, equipped with radio communication with the team and the KSP of the Shkheldinsky area.

On July 16, 1996, the team started on the route, with the pair Muralev — Galinov leading. On the "Georgian Shelf," Muralev — Galinov set up a bivouac. Slepnev — Sinyushin processed four ropes of the route. Slepnev worked first.

On July 17, 1996, after ascending via the fixed ropes, Sinyushin took the lead. Upon reaching the shelf with the control cairn, Muralev — Galinov set up a bivouac, while Sinyushin — Slepnev fixed four ropes on the route. The bivouac site was securely protected from falling rocks and had reliable piton protection.

On July 18, 1996, it snowed with rain from morning. Sinyushin led the remaining three ropes to enter the "funnel." Climbing was very challenging due to adverse weather conditions. The first climber had to ascend in boots, not rock shoes, as the rocks were wet.

The ice slope up to the bivouac sites near the "Red Corner" was traversed by the pair Muralev — Slepnev. All team members set up a bivouac on the platforms near the "Red Corner."

On July 19, 1996, it snowed with strong winds in the morning. The team waited until 10:00 for the weather to improve but eventually decided to proceed. Their high-quality GORE-TEX clothing and plastic boots allowed them to work on the route despite the unfavorable weather.

On challenging rock sections, Sinyushin led while exiting onto the ridge. They traveled lightly, planning to descend to the previous bivouac site. They reached the summit at 17:00 and were caught in a thunderstorm. By 20:00, they returned to the bivouac site.

Throughout the route, the first climber used a double UIAA rope, while the other team members ascended with backpacks via the fixed ropes. On July 20, 1996, they descended via the 5A route through the "Mazer notch" and the Mazeri pass.

Route Diagram

Route Description by Sections

R0–R1. Ascent via the right part of the western ridge of Ushba South from the southern branch of the Ushba glacier. Simple snow-ice slope.

R1–R2. Rocky ridge. Two most challenging sections: a wall in the middle and bypassing a "gendarme" on the left before reaching the "Georgian Shelf."

R2–R3. Approach to the base of the pillar via snow-covered "ram's foreheads."

R3–R4. Smooth rocks. R4–R7. Smooth rocks with a small number of poorly defined holds. Challenging free climbing with limited opportunities for intermediate protection.

R7–R8. Vertical smooth wall with a bolted route. Direction is upwards to the right.

R8–R9. Inclined inner corner. R9–R10. Complex wall climbing using artificial aids (ITO). R10–R13. Challenging monolithic rocks. R13–R14. Passing an overhang on the left. R14–R15. Monolithic rocks with few cracks. R15–R17. Passing an overhang on the left using ITO, exiting onto an inclined shelf. Semi-hanging belay station, with bolts available.

R17–R18. Bypassing a cornice on the wall to the left — a bolted route.

R18–R19. Inclined inner corner, moving upwards to the right.

R19–R20. Vertical inner corner leading to a small, convenient shelf.

R20–R21. Complex vertical inner corner transitioning into a slippery monolithic chimney, leading to an inclined shelf with a control cairn. The shelf has a comfortable campsite.

R21–R22. Simple, partially destroyed, snow-covered inner corner.

R22–R24. Vertical, complex inner corner — free climbing — leading to a narrow, deep chimney. Possible to bypass on the right via a monolithic inner corner.

R24–R25. Challenging free climbing.

R25–R26. Passing an inclined inner corner from right to left, approaching a vertical wall with a bolted route.

R26–R28. Very challenging climbing using ITO, first on a vertical wall, then on a diagonal crack upwards to the right — exit onto a convenient shelf. Possible bivouac for two. Rocks are wet, with continuous water flow from the "funnel."

R28–R29. Challenging free climbing on wet rocks. Limited opportunities for intermediate protection.

R29–R31. Challenging climbing using ITO under water flows.

R31–R32. Wet, monolithic, smooth rocks.

R32–R33. Challenging traverse to the right, with bolted protection.

R33–R35. Challenging exit via wet rocks through "ram's foreheads" left of the left edge of the "funnel." Unreliable piton protection.

R35–R39. Via simple rocks on the left part of the "funnel" — exit to its upper part, followed by a traverse to the right towards the ice slope, leading to bivouacs near the "Red Corner."

R39–R40. Snow-ice slope.

R40–R41. Snow-covered ridge leading to the base of the upper rock belt.

R41–R42. Complex inner corner leading under a cornice.

R42–R43. Cornice is traversed head-on. Challenging free climbing.

R43–R44. From an inclined shelf above the cornice, challenging wall climbing using ITO. Rocks are icy.

R44–R45. Pendulum move to the left to a vertical crack, leading to a small inclined shelf.

R45–R47. Traverse to the right upwards via a snow-covered shelf, then to the left upwards. Everything is covered in snow.

R47–R49. Cautious free climbing via a wide inner corner.

R49–R50. Via simple, destroyed rocks, exit onto the ridge towards the base of the summit ridge.

R50–R51. Via destroyed, snow-covered rocks — exit onto the ridge, then ascent to the summit.

Photo from the Georgian Shelf. Taken on July 15, 1996. #1822.

Bivouac near the control cairn at 4000 m. Section R21.

Section R26–R27. Taken on July 18, 1996, at 11:00.

Entering the "funnel." Section R30–R31.

GENERAL SUMMIT PHOTO (summer photo)

1. Climbed route (Kustovsky's 6B category route).
2. Kolomyvtsev's route 6A category.
3. Grigorenko–Prigoda's route 6A category.
4. Artsishevsky's route 6A category.
5. Myshlyaev's route. 6A category.
6. Zholobov's route. 6A category.

Note: Not all routes on the West wall of Ushba are listed.