Треугольный (4100) via W rib - 4A cat. 350, 45–50°, 30 m, 1, 20 pitches, 6 hours. Yu. Emelyanenko, T. Medvedeva 28/VII-83. Average steepness of sections R2–R10: 50–55°. Average steepness of sections R10–R20: 45°.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to peak 4100 m (conditionally named peak Треугольный) via Western rib 4A cat.

• Summit elevation: 4100 m
• Conditional name: peak Треугольный
• Difficulty category: 4A

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Sang-Hok, Hissar Range
3. Peak, elevation, ascent route — XXX years of "Varzob" 4367 m, via the center of the western bastion.
4. Difficulty category — 5A (estimated)
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 75°. Route length — 1000 m.
6. Pitons placed:

Ascent to the summit of Avicenna Peak

via NW ridge - 26 km journey The ascent to the summit starts from a bivouac located on the upper moraine of the Avicenna Glacier under Seraia Peak. Cross the Avicenna Glacier and head towards the snowy couloir descending from a gap in the NW ridge of Avicenna. The gap is located far to the right of the summit. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund, above which the couloir narrows and reaches a steepness of 40–45°. When ascending, stick to the right side of the couloir. From the gap, follow the left side of the ridge, initially traversing icy slabs - 6–7 m, then snow, staying close to the rocks. The snowy slope is steep - 40–45°, requiring protection through outcrops and pitons. Overcoming this 150 m section, reach a chimney 15 m high formed by the ridge rocks and a large standalone rock. After the chimney, a short rocky section with alternate protection leads to a small flat area. Continue with alternate protection along moderately difficult rocks, traversing the ridge on the left side. Then, follow a small snowpatch, bypassing it from below. Next, overcome a 10-meter chimney on steep granite rocks to reach the ridge. Protection through outcrops. The further 50 m path along the ridge on easy rocks presents no significant difficulties. A control cairn is built at the highest point of this section. Descend to the base of a gendarme along easy rocks on the ridge and a 4-meter wall. The gendarme is bypassed on the left by descending down the rock and snow along the gendarme for about 20 m. Pitons are used for protection during the bypass. Then, ascend to the right along easy rocks towards the ridge until reaching the boundary between rocks and snow. Descend from the ridge to a snowpatch via a narrow chockstone. Approach the next gendarme, which is taken head-on, along the snowpatch. Once on the gendarme, move along smooth granite rocks and descend via a chimney to the foot of a large dome-shaped gendarme.

Ascent Route Description to the Summit

Babr from the North 1B–6B cat. diff.

The Babr peak (about 4020 m above sea level) is located in the southern spurs of the Hissar ridge, in the Sang-i-Navishta mountain group, in the ridge dividing the basins of the glaciers:

• Sangalt
• Avicenna between the peaks Khar'kov and Piramida. The peak is a rocky massif with a gendarme located on the right in the ridge of the peak (when viewed from the Sangalt glacier, from where the ascent is made). From the overnight stay located at the left edge of the Sangalt glacier (below the Kruglaya peak), we cross the firn plateau of the cirque and exit to a snowy slope, then ascend to the heavily destroyed rocks, and climb to the northern ridge of the peak — below the gendarme. On the right side of the ridge, we approach a vertical cleft and ascend to the highest point of the gendarme. Descent from the gendarme to the saddle is rationally done "sitting on a rope" (5 m). From the saddle to the summit, the ascent proceeds along the ledges on the right side of the ridge. On the ridge, saddle, and ledges along the way to the summit, the rocks are heavily destroyed and there are many loose stones.

62. Babr, Northeast Face, Category III, Diagram 32.

From the bivouac on the left lateral moraine of the Sangalt Glacier, cross the firn plateau of the cirque and approach the northeast wall of the summit via a snowslope. The ascent begins on heavily broken rock slabs with a slope of up to 40° for 50 m to a ledge that is clearly visible from below. The ledge has either snow or scree. Follow the ledge rightwards along the wall for 80 m to the start of a rock couloir. From there, ascend the wall, which is broken by ledges, for 50 m in the direction of an inside corner formed by the main wall and the wall of a buttress. The rocks are of moderate difficulty, and protection is via pitons. Ascend the left wall of the inside corner for 120 m to a chimney. The climbing is difficult. Exit the chimney via its left wall onto a platform. Then move leftwards and upwards on a poorly defined ridge for 150 m to the summit ridge. Protection is via pitons. Traverse rightwards along the broken summit ridge for about 200 m to the summit. Movement is simultaneous. The descent from the summit to the northwest is Category II (Route 61). The ascent takes 9–11 hours. Diagram 32.

Ascent to the summit of BIVACHNAYA via S.–E. ridge, cat. 1B The ascent to the summit starts from the "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac located below the summit of Bivachnaya. From the camp, follow the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsai, Ular, Khyrsa, and Kulay Djovanon up to the old moraine of the glacier, bypassing the north-eastern and eastern slopes of Bivachnaya. Then, start ascending to the right up the grassy and talus slopes towards the S.–E. ridge of the summit. To the left of the summit remains a saddle on the southern ridge leading to Kulay Djovanon. When ascending the lower and middle parts of the ridge, move to the left of the ridge, leaving rocks to the right. Small rocky ridges also protrude to the left. Continuing the ascent to the left of the ridge, approach the walls descending from the ridge. To the right of the walls, there is a shoulder on the ridge that you should aim for. From here, further movement is along the ridge rocks. The rocks are of moderate difficulty with diverse relief forms. Protection is alternating through rock projections. The final ascent to the summit is via easy rocks. Early in the season, there may be snow and cornices to the right, towards the north-east. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route back to the "Zelyonaya polyana" valley.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants: 6–8 people

ASCENT LOG.

5.2.12

Climbing category — technical. Climbing area — Gissar Ridge, Igizak area. Peak, its height, route — p. Bivachnaya, 3400–3320 m, via the West face. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 115 m, average steepness — 57°. Pitons hammered in:

• rock — 92
• ice —

Open Championship of Sverdlovsk Region on Alpinism

Report on the ascent to the peak Bivachnaya 3700 m via "diagonals" of the Western wall, approximately 5B cat. diff., made by the team of Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the DSO "Burevestnik"

Team leader and coach Igolkin V.I. 1987 Chelyabinsk Regional Council DSO "Burevestnik" Address: 454080, Chelyabinsk, Lenina ave., 78 Chairman of the Regional Council - Deyneko Sergey Ivanovich, work tel. 39–91–01 (transformed into the sector of student sports of the Regional DLSO of Trade Unions) Team leader and coach Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich

Report

On the ascent of the group

From the Alpinism club of Magnitogorsk to the summit of Bivachnaya Gissarskaya 3700 m via the "crevice" of the Western wall

Magnitogorsk

2012

Leader of the first ascent in 1979: Viktor Ivanovich Igolkin. Leader and coach of the ascent in 1987: Viktor Ivanovich Igolkin Leader and coach of the ascent in 2012 with the goal of restoring the route: Viktor Ivanovich Igolkin 455000 Magnitogorsk, Lenin Ave. 37, apt. 23, e-mail: a­va­re.i­vi@gmail.com, tel. (3519) 20-82-17, 8 909 093-65-21

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Pamir-Alay, Gissarsky ridge (section 5.2)

Passport

1. Class of ascent
2. Region of ascent, ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Proposed category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference average steepness
6. Pitons hammered for belay
7. Number of travel hours
8. Overnights