62. Babr, Northeast Face, Category III, Diagram 32.

From the bivouac on the left lateral moraine of the Sangalt Glacier, cross the firn plateau of the cirque and approach the northeast wall of the summit via a snowslope.

The ascent begins on heavily broken rock slabs with a slope of up to 40° for 50 m to a ledge that is clearly visible from below. The ledge has either snow or scree. Follow the ledge rightwards along the wall for 80 m to the start of a rock couloir. From there, ascend the wall, which is broken by ledges, for 50 m in the direction of an inside corner formed by the main wall and the wall of a buttress. The rocks are of moderate difficulty, and protection is via pitons.

Ascend the left wall of the inside corner for 120 m to a chimney. The climbing is difficult. Exit the chimney via its left wall onto a platform. Then move leftwards and upwards on a poorly defined ridge for 150 m to the summit ridge. Protection is via pitons.

Traverse rightwards along the broken summit ridge for about 200 m to the summit. Movement is simultaneous.

The descent from the summit to the northwest is Category II (Route 61). The ascent takes 9–11 hours.

Diagram 32.