Ascent to the summit of Avicenna Peak
via NW ridge - 26 km journey
The ascent to the summit starts from a bivouac located on the upper moraine of the Avicenna Glacier under Seraia Peak.
Cross the Avicenna Glacier and head towards the snowy couloir descending from a gap in the NW ridge of Avicenna. The gap is located far to the right of the summit. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund, above which the couloir narrows and reaches a steepness of 40–45°. When ascending, stick to the right side of the couloir.
From the gap, follow the left side of the ridge, initially traversing icy slabs - 6–7 m, then snow, staying close to the rocks. The snowy slope is steep - 40–45°, requiring protection through outcrops and pitons. Overcoming this 150 m section, reach a chimney 15 m high formed by the ridge rocks and a large standalone rock. After the chimney, a short rocky section with alternate protection leads to a small flat area.
Continue with alternate protection along moderately difficult rocks, traversing the ridge on the left side. Then, follow a small snowpatch, bypassing it from below. Next, overcome a 10-meter chimney on steep granite rocks to reach the ridge. Protection through outcrops. The further 50 m path along the ridge on easy rocks presents no significant difficulties. A control cairn is built at the highest point of this section.
Descend to the base of a gendarme along easy rocks on the ridge and a 4-meter wall. The gendarme is bypassed on the left by descending down the rock and snow along the gendarme for about 20 m. Pitons are used for protection during the bypass. Then, ascend to the right along easy rocks towards the ridge until reaching the boundary between rocks and snow. Descend from the ridge to a snowpatch via a narrow chockstone.
Approach the next gendarme, which is taken head-on, along the snowpatch. Once on the gendarme, move along smooth granite rocks and descend via a chimney to the foot of a large dome-shaped gendarme.
The gendarme is overcome head-on along moderately difficult rocks. Protection through outcrops; the gendarme is a control point.
Descent from the gendarme is made along the left side of the ridge, down a cleft to a platform before a snowpatch. The path continues along the snowpatch to the granite "lips" of the pre-summit gendarme.
Ascend the gendarme via a short section of slabs to a narrow ledge going left, then along this ledge and further via a chimney through a "plug." After exiting the chimney, traverse the gendarme on the left side along ledges, then via a cleft to reach the ridge extending to the left. Ascend to the top of the gendarme along its sharp ridge; control cairn.
Descend from the gendarme along its sharp ridge, then via a narrow slot between this gendarme and a rocky outcrop marking the end of the gendarme. Bypass this outcrop via a randkluft to the right, and after 15 m, reach a snowy saddle from which the path to the summit is visible.
The ascent to the summit begins via a shallow, heavily iced couloir for 50 m. Then, move to the left side of the couloir, partially filled with snow, and ascend along it to the ridge of a small spur from which this couloir descends. Overcome a 2-meter wall to reach a platform. Continue along easy rocks for 60 m to the summit.
Descent from the summit is made on the opposite side via route 1B cat. diff.
Initially:
- descend to the right along rocks via a wide chimney wall;
- then move along the ridge to a snowy saddle.
From the saddle, descend left via one of the couloirs:
- along scree;
- along snow - to the upper cirque of the Avicenna Glacier.
Return to the bivouac on the moraine via the glacier.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants - 6–8 people
- Initial bivouac - on the moraine of the Avicenna Glacier
- Departure time - not later than 5:00
- Equipment for a group of 6 people: rock pitons - 6 pcs., hammers - 2 pcs., carabiners - 6 pcs., main ropes 3 × 30 m.
The route takes 12 hours. The first ascent was made in the early 1950s.
Compiled by: Submitted by ir to approve 2 cat. diff. Kir /Sogrin/
Avicenna Peak above the Avicenna Glacier.
