Passport

1. Class of ascent
2. Region of ascent, ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Proposed category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference average steepness
6. Pitons hammered for belay
7. Number of travel hours
8. Overnights
9. Team composition: leader —
10. Team coach —
11. Date of departure and return from the route

— rock. — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy. — V. Moskva, 2832 m, via E. counterfort of SE. ridge. — 3B. — 182 m. — counterfort 50°. — 13 pcs. — 5 h 20 min. — none. — Melentyev V.I. — CMS, Donskoy K.D. — CMS, Yakovina V.P. — 1st sports category, Zarechnyuk I.A. — 1st sports category, Perevalova O.I. — 2nd sports category — Koreneva I.E. — MS — May 7, 1983

Description

Ascent to the peak Moskva (2832 m) via the eastern counterfort of the southeastern ridge (Photo #1).

From the base camp at the forest boundary (1700 m) along a ready-made trail to the lake (2233 m) and further on the snow crust to the start of the route (2650 m). The entire approach took 3.5 hours. The start of the route is on the first snow shelf of the counterfort. The counterfort is clearly defined, bounded on the left by a steep narrow couloir — a gully, and on the right by snow-covered slabs (Photo #2).

Section R0–R1

An implicitly defined gendarme on the counterfort ridge is bypassed on the right, along the snow-covered rocks (40 m, 45°). The movement is varied, with belay through ledges (Photo #3).

Section R1–R2

The wall (40 m, 55–60°) is ascended leftwards upwards to a wide chimney. The rocks are snow-covered with small inclined grassy ledges. Climbing is of moderate difficulty, with piton belay, and rope protection. 4 pitons were hammered (Photo #4).

Section R2–R3

A wide chimney (20 m, 60°) is ascended using free climbing and leads to the counterfort ridge. The rocks are snow-covered, with piton belay (3 pitons, 2 stopper knots), and rope protection (Photo #5).

Section R3–R4

Along the counterfort ridge to the exit onto the main ridge (70 m, 45–50°). At the exit onto the ridge, a wall (3 m, 90°) is passed on the left via a narrow inclined ledge. Along the counterfort ridge, the belay is piton and through ledges (6 pitons), with rope protection (Photo #6).

Section R4–R5

Further rightwards along a narrow, heavily serrated ridge with three ascents. The ridge is 250 m long, with ascents at 45–50°. The movement is simultaneous, with belay through ledges. The ascents are overcome alternately, with belay through ledges (Photo #7).

Section R5–R6

The pre-summit ridge is snow-covered, almost horizontal, with large snow cornices on the right; it is traversed along the left slope (Photo #8) with an exit to the summit. A control cairn is built. The ascent to the summit from the start of the route took 4 hours 40 minutes.

Section R6–R7

Descent from the summit along a snow slope, keeping to the Western ridge, into the Barun-Khandagai gorge (250 m, 40–45°). Further along the Barun-Khandagai gorge and through the Dinosaur pass to the base camp, 3.5 hours.

Recommendations:

The route is passable for a training group of climbers.

Have a set of:

• stopper knots — 4 pcs.;
• combined pitons — 5 pcs.;
• channel pitons — 4 pcs.

Have safety clamps in the group.

Composition of the group that made the first ascent:

• Melentyev V.I. — CMS — leader;
• Donskoy K.D. — CMS;
• Yakovina V.P. — 1st sports category;
• Zarechnyuk I.A. — 1st sports category;
• Perevalova O.I. — 2nd sports category.

The group believes that the route corresponds to the 3B category of difficulty. The ascent was made in good weather conditions in 11 hours 40 minutes of travel time. 13 pitons and 2 stopper knots were used for belay on the route. In bad weather conditions, the route will become more complicated, requiring more time to pass.

Scheme of the ascent route to peak Moskva via E. counterfort of SE. ridge

Descent from the summit along a snow slope, keeping to the W. ridge, into the Barun-Khandagai gorge 250 m, 40–45°.

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Photo #8.

Photo #6.