Ascent Route Description to the Summit

Babr from the North 1B–6B cat. diff.

The Babr peak (about 4020 m above sea level) is located in the southern spurs of the Hissar ridge, in the Sang-i-Navishta mountain group, in the ridge dividing the basins of the glaciers:

• Sangalt
• Avicenna

between the peaks Khar'kov and Piramida.

The peak is a rocky massif with a gendarme located on the right in the ridge of the peak (when viewed from the Sangalt glacier, from where the ascent is made).

From the overnight stay located at the left edge of the Sangalt glacier (below the Kruglaya peak), we cross the firn plateau of the cirque and exit to a snowy slope, then ascend to the heavily destroyed rocks, and climb to the northern ridge of the peak — below the gendarme. On the right side of the ridge, we approach a vertical cleft and ascend to the highest point of the gendarme. Descent from the gendarme to the saddle is rationally done "sitting on a rope" (5 m).

From the saddle to the summit, the ascent proceeds along the ledges on the right side of the ridge. On the ridge, saddle, and ledges along the way to the summit, the rocks are heavily destroyed and there are many loose stones.

The ascent from the overnight stay to the summit takes 2.5–4 hours, and the descent via the ascent route takes 1.5–2 hours.

The route corresponds to 1B–6B cat. diff. and can be recommended as a training ascent for small groups of ranked climbers.

The first ascent was made on July 19, 1962, by a group of instructors and ranked climbers from the Varzob alpine camp (Mashkov V., Lyapin Z., Telegina L., Spasskiy K.).

Description compiled by: junior mountaineering instructor Lyapin Z.F.