Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Object of ascent: v. Ural V. via the SE wall.
4. Proposed route - 5B category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference - 550 m, length - 684 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity - 545 m. Average steepness of main sections is 70° (3600-4080), including 6 category of complexity at 87° (3600-3685); 85° (3715-3770).
6. Pitons hammered: rock 65, bolt 7, chocks 72, 3.
7. Team's man-hours - 20 and days - 2.

3. Ural 3 — v, traverse, 4B.

From the Ukju-kosh hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the KSP Golubjatnja bivouac, then along the M. Ukju glacier to the slope leading to Ural pass — 1.5–2 hours. Up the middle of the snow-ice slope (attention: covered crevasses, rockfall hazard at the edges, especially to the left of the first "gendarme" of the 3rd ridge of Ural peak) into the hollow under the pass, from it — up the steep ice-snow slope (30–40 m) to the pass; from the glacier — 1–1.5 hours. From the pass, ascend left to a gendarme, then along the ridge to the col under the wall of the 3rd summit; a bivouac site is possible here. From the pass — 1 hour. From the col, 4 m left and up to a square boulder, up the inner corner (or left of it) to a ledge, along it 4–5 m, right of a rock awning 5 m up to a trough-like ledge, left and up under a red rock. Right of it, up the corner and on the right side of the wall to a control cairn (35 m from the col). From the cairn, up the slabs and along ledges traversing left under the wall, along the ridge to a red "gendarme" and bypassing it on the left. Behind the "gendarme", straight up 5 m via a chimney and 15 m up the inner corner, then 7–8 m up smooth rocks to a slab with a 40° slope. Along the lower edge of the slab, traverse 15–17 m along a crevasse to the right, up the slab along a vertical wall, 3 m up an overhanging wall (artificial aid) and another 20 m up monolithic rocks to the summit ridge. Along the ridge for 60 m to the 3rd summit. From the col — 4–6 hours. Descent to the E — 40 m rappel, then along the snowy ridge under the E summit. Ascent to the E summit along the ridge; 40 m before the summit, traverse right along a ledge and, bypassing the summit from the S, reach the shoulder of its E ridge.

153а. Shaurtu Glavnaya - Shaurtu Severная

(combined route, category III, fig. 14, 16, 17). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Shaurtu Glavnaya is described in route 152. The descent from Shaurtu Glavnaya to the col of the Northeast ridge is described in route 149. From the col, traverse simple snow-covered rocks to reach the Maly Gendarme (Little Gendarme) and then proceed to a narrow snow saddle (cornice). From the saddle, traverse snow-covered rocks of the Bolshoy Shirokiy Gendarme (Big Wide Gendarme) on the Northeast ridge of Shaurtu Severная summit, reach the snow ridge, and follow it (cornice) to approach the Bolshoy Gendarme (Big Gendarme). Overcome the Gendarme along the ridge and then ascend steep rocky ridge to reach the summit of Shaurtu Severная. Time from Glavnaya summit: 4-5 hours.

Ascent Record

1. Category — snow and ice climb
2. Main Caucasus Range, Bezengi valley
3. Shkhara Main via the ice board on the North face
4. Proposed — 5B category difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference — 1800 m, length — 2790 m, length of sections with IV–VI category difficulty — 888 m, including about 130 m of VI category difficulty. Average steepness of main sections — 44°
6. Equipment used on the route: ice screws — 197, rock pitons — 4
7. Climbing hours for ascent — 24, days — 1.5
8. All overnight stays on snow platforms

All-Union Council

Alplager "Bezengi"

The ascent is dedicated to the bright memory of Igor Alexandrovich DUDCHENKO

Caucasus

Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the center of the North face

1. BLANKOVSKY A.K., Master of Sports — "Zenit" — team leader
2. LEVIN A.S., Master of Sports — "Trud" — participant
3. KRAINOV I.P., CMS — "Spartak"
4. MELENTYEV V.I., CMS — "Zenit" 1980

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region 2.5
3. Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the north face of the eastern ridge spur, second ascent of the route
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Height difference — 1157 m (3900–5057), wall length — 1730 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 660 m (3975–4570, 4780–4890), average steepness of main sections — 64–67°, of which 6th category — 320 m (4280–4570, 4780–4890), 77–79°

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Gebidon river gorge, 2.6.
3. Peak, route: Abduramanova (3250 m), South ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category: 1B rock, p/p
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — about 80 m. Route length — 320 m. Section lengths: 3rd difficulty category – 20 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Gebidon river valley, 2.6.
3. Peak, route: Abduramanova (3250 m), North ridge.
4. Expected category of difficulty: 2A rock, p/p
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — about 300 m Route length — 500–600 m; Length of sections: 3rd category of difficulty — 80 m; 2nd category of difficulty — 180 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°
6. Belaying through ledges, rock pitons.
7. Number of walking hours/days — 5–6/1

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
3. Peak, route: peak Agibalova (3705 m): via West-East towers, traverse
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, semi-independent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — about 900 m, route length — 900 m, section lengths: 4th category of difficulty — 25 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 110 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 90 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 55°
6. Number of pitons driven: 6 pcs., number of chocks: 5 pcs.
7. Number of walking hours / days: 7 / 1
8. Number of overnight stays: 1 — at a bivouac

2.6.95

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
3. Peak, route: Aikhva Uzlovaya (3791 m): via West ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B category of difficulty: p/p
5. Route characteristics: height difference — about 100 m, route length — 310 m, length of sections: 3 (8 m) 2 (160 m)