153а. Shaurtu Glavnaya - Shaurtu Severная

(combined route, category III, fig. 14, 16, 17). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Shaurtu Glavnaya is described in route 152. The descent from Shaurtu Glavnaya to the col of the Northeast ridge is described in route 149. From the col, traverse simple snow-covered rocks to reach the Maly Gendarme (Little Gendarme) and then proceed to a narrow snow saddle (cornice). From the saddle, traverse snow-covered rocks of the Bolshoy Shirokiy Gendarme (Big Wide Gendarme) on the Northeast ridge of Shaurtu Severная summit, reach the snow ridge, and follow it (cornice) to approach the Bolshoy Gendarme (Big Gendarme). Overcome the Gendarme along the ridge and then ascend steep rocky ridge to reach the summit of Shaurtu Severная. Time from Glavnaya summit: 4-5 hours.