Fig. 22

1. Ascent to the summit of Zub Sofruju — category 2B (Fig. 22)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, cross the bridge over the Alibek River and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakaysky couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend 300 m up. Then, move left into the Sofrujinsky couloir (prone to rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya Polyana (Bear Glade). From Medvezhya Polyana, initially follow alpine meadows (trail), then snow, and after 300–350 m, move left of the eastern slopes of Belalakaya to reach the Sofrujinsky bivouac.

The journey from Dombayskaya Polyana takes 5–6 hours.

From the bivouac (in rope teams!), descend to the Sofrujinsky Glacier, traverse between the upper and lower icefalls, and reach the base of the summit massif.

Ascend the steep (50–55°) snow slope (partially rocky), reach the ridge, and follow it to a snow saddle. Continue along the snowy ridge to a wall.

In the second half of summer, ice is present on this section — crampons and ice axes are required. The ridge is sharp (belay required!).

• Ascend the 18–20-meter wall (2 pitons!)
• Continue along the broken ridge to a steep ascent
• The steep ridge ascent is bypassed on the right via a rocky couloir with loose rocks (prone to rockfall!)
• Ascend the couloir to the pre-summit ascent
• Continue along the narrow, heavily broken ridge to the summit (belay required!)

From the bivouac to the summit takes 4–5 hours. Descending via the ascent route to the bivouac takes 3-4 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants in the group should not exceed 8 people.
2. The initial bivouac is the upper Sofrujinsky campsite.
3. Departure time from the bivouac is 4:00–5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cord — 2 m; c) rock pitons — 4–5; d) ice pitons — 2 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons — 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).