Fig. 26
2. Traverse of Sofrudzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)
From Dombayskaya Polyana across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Amanauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the morena and over the "baarany lby" to the Amanauzsky glacier, and along it to the terminal morena under the Zapadno-Amanauzsky glacier. Camping site. From Dombayskaya Polyana — 3–4 hours. Further (in connection!) ascend to the Amanauz pass between the peaks Glavny Amanauz and Sofrudzhu. Ascend along the right side of the heavily crevassed glacier, then, in the upper part, under the slopes of Sofrudzhu Zub exit to the middle of the glacier, as snow avalanches are possible from the slopes of Sofrudzhu Zub. Along the middle of the glacier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky outcrop at the pass point. From the pass, ascend along the debris-covered rocks of the eastern ridge to the northern peak of Sofrudzhu (danger of falling rocks, protection!) and further through the saddle to the southern peak. From the camping site — 6–7 hours.
Descent follows the path of category 1B complexity.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants in the group — 10–15 people.
- Initial camping site — terminal morena on the Amanauzsky glacier.
- Time of departure from the camping site — not later than 3 am.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2 × 30 m; b) rock pitons — 2; c) ice screws — 2; d) carabiners — 8; e) crampons — 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
- Possible camping sites: 1st — Amanauz pass; 2nd — upper Sofrudzhu nocturne.
- From the second half of August and until the end of summer the route is not recommended, as during this time the Amanauzsky glacier is heavily crevassed and difficult to pass.