Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana.

From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.

From the bivouac (in rope teams!), ascend the snowy slope for 100 m and then move left towards Sofrudju pass, parallel to the slopes of Zadnyaya Belalaka­ya, closer to the left edge of the firn plateau (snow and ice avalanches are possible from the slopes of Zadnyaya Belalaka­ya). After passing 150–200 m east of the end of the Zadnyaya Belalaka­ya ridge, turn right and ascend the crevassed firn slope — exit to the pass (belay!).

From the pass, ascend to the peak in a southeast direction:

• first, head towards the north peak,
• before reaching the saddle, exit to the ridge of the main peak,
• follow the ridge to the peak.

From the Sofrudju bivouac to the peak — 3.5–4 hours.

The descent via the ascent route to Dombayskaya polyana takes 6–7 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — unlimited.
2. Initial bivouac — upper Sofrudju overnight stay.
3. Departure time from the bivouac — 5:00 AM.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2×30 m; b) rock hooks — 1–2; c) ice hooks — 2; d) rock hammer — 1; e) carabiners — 6.