Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak

Ascent:

• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks
• exit to the counterfort — bivouac

From the Severny shelter 3–4 hours.

Further up the counterfort 100 — 120 m along heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty (rockfall!), then straight up 80–100 m along difficult rocks 70–80° (pitons insurance!) and exit to the ledges. Along the ledges and rocks of medium difficulty, exit to a steep 40-meter wall, which is climbed with piton insurance — the rocks are slab-like, with few holds and cracks. Above the wall, ascent along destroyed rocks (insurance, rockfall!) to a stepped, grassy ledge and along it to a steep 80–85° wall. Up the wall 40 m (destroyed rocks, piton insurance!) to slabs. Along the slabs, traverse right, exit to rocks of medium difficulty and along them to the shoulder of the counterfort. To the right of the counterfort, along rocks of medium difficulty upwards, then 60 m along difficult (75°) slab-like rocks (piton insurance!) to a crevice. Along the crevice, turning into a chimney (8 m), — to rocks of medium difficulty and along them to the upper snowfield under overhanging rocks (rockfall possible from the upper slopes at this section!). From the upper snowfield left, first along stepped, then slab-like rocks (inclined holds, piton insurance!) to a ledge. Along the ledge through slabs and difficult rocks right — exit to the western ridge (careful piton insurance!). Along rocks of medium difficulty to a gendarme.

Bypass the gendarme on the left (piton insurance!), then through the next, pointed, gendarme to the crest and along its southern side to the summit.

From the summit, along simple rocks, descent to the saddle between Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha and further descent along the route category 4A.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — not more than 4 people.
2. Initial bivouac — on the "ram's foreheads" under the counterfort.
3. Time of departure from the bivouac — not later than 5:00 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2×40 m; b) expendable cordelette — 10 m; c) rock pitons — 16–18; d) rock hammers — 2; e) carabiners — 12.
5. Possible bivouac locations: 1st — on the crest under the summit; 2nd — on the saddle between Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha.