Fig. 22

1. Ascent to the summit of Zub Sofrudju — category 2B (fig. 22)

From Dombayskaya polyana across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay sky cuolar. Across the stream onto the snowfield and 300 m up. Then left into the Sofrudju cuolar (rockfall hazard!) and up to a large overhanging rock. Then straight up a steep section to the trail and along it to Medvezhya polyana.

From Medvezhya polyana:

• initially along alpine meadows (trail),
• then across snow,
• and after 300–350 m, left of the eastern slopes of Belalakaya — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac.

From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.

From the bivouac (in teams!), descend to the Sofrudju glacier, traverse between the upper and lower icefalls, and exit below the massif of the summit. Ascend a steep (50–55°) snowy slope (partially rocky), exit onto the ridge and along it — to a snowy saddle. Then along the snowy ridge to a wall.

In the second half of summer, ice on this section requires crampons and ice screws. The ridge is sharp (protection required!). From the ridge, up an 18–20-meter wall (2 pitons!) and then along a broken ridge to a steep ascent.

The steep ascent on the ridge is bypassed on the right via a loose rocky couloir (rockfall hazard!). Up the couloir to the pre-summit ascent and then along a narrow, heavily broken ridge to the summit (protection required!).

Ascent time:

• From the bivouac to the summit: 4–5 hours.
• Descent via the ascent route to the bivouac: 3-4 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — upper Sofrudju overnight stay.
3. Departure time from the bivouac — 4–5 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 20 m; c) rock pitons — 4–5; d) ice screws — 2 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons — 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).