SummitMate
@SummitMate
A description of the 3B category climbing route "По юго-западной стене" (Via southwestern wall) to the summit of Kara-Jash (3171 m) in Arkhyz, including technical details and photographs.
Western Caucasus. Arkhyz. Orlenok hollow. Summit — Kara-Jash (3171 m). Route:
"Via the southwestern wall" 3B (combined)
Summit Description
Kara-Jash summit (3171 m) — a nodal summit of the mountain massif (on old maps — ridge) Kara-Jash. Located on the territory of the Caucasian Federal District of the Russian Federation, in Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz mountain region (Orlenok hollow), between the rivers Pshish, Sofia, and Orlenok. Kara-Dash summit (3171 m) — a pronounced mountain of the Karajash ridge, easily identifiable from the Taulu clearing, located at the confluence of the Sofia river into Pshish river. The official name of the summit, marked on the geographical maps of the Russian Federation (Scale: 1
Route Description: СВ гребню
Report on the first ascent of the route of 3B category of difficulty to the top of Kara-Jash (3171 m) by the North-Eastern ridge in the Western Caucasus.
Kara-Djash peak (3171 m). Route: via the north-eastern ridge. Category of difficulty: 3B cat. diff. (combined). Leader: K. Shustov. Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Kara-Djash mountain range. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU
Report
On the first ascent of the alpinist route to the Kara-Djash peak (3171 m) "via the north-eastern ridge (combined)". At the year-round alpine event, competition in mountaineering NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai" 2013 — "Cup of Victory" (class "First Ascents").
Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain range: Western Caucasus. Gully: Orlenok. Mountain range: Kara-Djash. Peak: Kara-Djash (3171). Route: via the north-eastern ridge. Level of difficulty: 3B cat. diff. (combined). Prepared by: K. Shustov, S. Zhuravlev. May, 2013.
Description of the peak
Kara-Djash peak (3171) is a nodal peak of the Kara-Djash mountain range. Located on the territory of the Caucasian Federal District of the Russian Federation, in the Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz mountain region (Orlenok gully), between the rivers:
- Psyish
- Sofia
Route Description: С гребню
Report on the first ascent of the route of 4A category of complexity to the top of Kara-Jash via the northern ridge in the Western Caucasus.
Karajash Peak (3171) Route: via the northern ridge Complexity category: 4A cat. (Combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok ravine, mountain range (ridge) Karajash Section in KMGV – 2.1. E-mail – ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU
Report
On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to the Karajash peak (3171) "Via the northern ridge 4A cat. (combined)".
Route Description: ЮВ стене
Description of the 4A category complexity rock climbing route to the summit "40 лет НРБ" (3201 m) in the Western Caucasus, including a detailed description of the ascent and descent paths, recommendations, and required equipment.
Ascent Passport
| Climbing Category | — | Rock climbing |
|---|---|---|
| Climbing Area | — | Western Caucasus, North-West spur of Sofiyskiy ridge between Pshish and Sofiya rivers. |
| Expected Difficulty Category | 4A | |
| Route Characteristics | — | Rock climbing, absolute height difference 320 m. |
| Pitons hammered, chocks placed | — | 34 |
| Number of climbing hours | — | 7 |
| Number of overnight stays | — | The route is completed within daylight hours |
| Climbing Team Leader | Fedorov B.V. — 1st sports category, 357748 Kislovodsk, Pomenko st. 108–9. |
Route Description: ЮЮВ стене
Report on the passage of category 4B route via the eastern wall of Kara-Dash Yuzhnaya peak (3201 m) in the Caucasus, Arkhyz area.
Ascent Passport
- Region: Caucasus, Arkhyz area, section 2.1 ECTM 2013
- Peak 3201 m (Karadash Yu.), via the eastern wall
- Proposed category: 4B, first ascent
- Route type: rock climbing
- Route height difference: 290 m Route length: 330 m. Length of sections with category V difficulty: 88 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 52°
- Pitons left on the route: 0, including bolted pitons: 0, use of artificial climbing aids (ITOs): 0
- Team's climbing hours: 9.5 hours
- Team leader: Shamalov V.P., Master of Sports of Russia
Route Description: СВ гребню, траверс
A description of the 4A category climbing route along the Kara-Jash ridge in the Western Caucasus, with a detailed description of the path, obstacles, and necessary techniques.
Passport
- Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.1. Western Caucasus, mountain region — Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, mountain massif (ridge) Kara-Jash
- Names of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100»)
- Heights of peaks: 2900–3171–3170–3201–3226
- Route: traverse of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100») from north-east to south
Description of traversing the ridge with ascents to the Kara-Jash and other peaks, complexity category 3.4, with illustrations and route excerpts.
Bugaratov Ksenets, Arasi, Valia Orgenei Vershye — 2006 (Kara-Dezhi N-E),
Kara-Dezhi (3171), 3178 — 3201 (NRB), 3226 (Turgene, Denisphona) (3227) Route:
"Tramers mershin 2006 (Kara-Dezhi N-E) — Kara-Dezhi (3171) 3178 — 3201 (NRB)"
Krovec, Illyandota, 44 c.c. (Klaboporgonizsy) Photo from balia Orgenei — Third
section promerce — route 3.4
c.c.
passing the central part of the traverse — Kara-Jash — 3170 — 3201 (NRB)
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Technical route description, category 1C complexity, to the summit of Kardivach-Ualonaia (3024 m) in Krasnodar Krai.
ASCENT PASS
I. Climbing category: technical 2. Climbing area, ridge: 2.1. Krasnodar region to Marukh pass. 3. Summit, its height, ascent route: Kardyvach – Uzlovaya, 3024 m. Route along the crest, combined (snow, rocks). 4. Estimated difficulty category: 1B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 470 m, average slope 20°. 6. Pitons driven: for belay: for creating artificial support
| rock | ice | bolted | |
|---|---|---|---|
| rock | 0 | 0 |
Route Description: 3 гребню
Description of the first ascent route to the peak Uzlovaya - Kardyvach via the western ridge, category 2A, climbed by a group of the Krasnodar Regional Alpinism Federation in 1972.
Description
The route of the first ascent to the peak Uzlovaya - Kardyvach via the Western ridge by the group of the Krasnodar regional Federation of alpinism DSO "Burevestnik" in May 1972.
Approach to the initial bivouac
From the city of Adler to the Risha lake - by bus. Then to the Avadhara settlement 4-5 hours walk or 30 minutes by car (depending on road conditions). Overnight stay. Departure from the Avadhara settlement at 4-5 am to reach the south-eastern slopes of the Kuta-teku False pass before sunrise. 1.5-2 hours walk. Then ascent along the pronounced rib directly along the route. Snow slopes with a steepness of 25-30°. After ascending to the ridge, turn right to the Kuta-teku pass. Ascent to the pass takes 3-4 hours. Possible bivouac site. Then descend from the pass along a snowy slope with a steepness of 45°. Two ropes. Then the slope is 20-25°. Descend to the forest. At the entrance to it, turn left and traverse the slope. Follow the stream leading to the Kardyvach lake. Convenient and safe bivouac site. From the Kardyvach lake bivouac, head south through the forest, along the left (orographic) bank of the Lagyernaya river, to a wide snowy chute. Up the chute and then left to a vaguely expressed rib leading to the western ridge of the Uzlovaya - Kardyvach peak. Reach the ridge at a point without a cornice. From the base camp 1.5-2 hours. R0-R1.
Description of the ascent route
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Report on the ascent of a group of climbers to the peak Kardivach-Uzlovaya via the north-eastern ridge in 1975, describing a category 2B complexity route.
19 22
REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KARDYVACH-UZLOVAYA VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE ON OCTOBER 21–22, 1975, BY A GROUP FROM THE KUBAN REGIONAL COUNCIL OF THE "BUREVESTNIK" SPORTS SOCIETY
I. GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE AREA
The Kardyвач lake area is located at the junction of:
- The Main Caucasian Range
- The Gagra Range All peaks of sporting interest are part of the Main Caucasian Range. At the junction of the mentioned ranges stands the peak Kardyвач-Uzlovaya, elevation 3020 m. To its south lies the peak Kardyвач-Glavnaya, and to the north, there are five peaks of the Tsyndyshхо massif, Smidovich peak, and the peak Layub, situated in a spur of the Main Caucasian Range extending south towards the Gagra Range. The elevation of the peaks in the area exceeds 3000 m above sea level, with the highest peak being Smidovich peak at 3359 m.