SummitMate
@SummitMate
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of a technical ascent category 5E to the summit of Aurondag (4573 m) via the North-East wall in the Gissar Range, made in 1978.
Ascent Log
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: Gissar Ridge
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the Central North wall
- Difficulty category: 5B, second ascent
- Route characteristics: total elevation gain 978 m, average steepness 73°, technical sections 80°, route length 1197 m and sections by difficulty category (m) | Difficulty Category | Length (m) | | :------------------ | :--------- | | 1 | — |
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of the passage of a 5B category difficulty route to the summit of Aurondagh (4573 m) through the central part of the NW wall in the Fann Mountains.
Ascent Log
I. Ascent classification: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the central part of the NW wall 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1374 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections:
- R1 — 300 m
- R2 — 150 m
- R3 — 370 m
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Aurondak (4573 m) via the central part of the North wall in the Fann Mountains, with a difficulty category of 5B.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the central part of the N wall 4. Proposed complexity category: 5B category 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1374 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections:
- R1 — 300 m
- R2 — 150 m
- R4 — 370 m
Route Description: СЗ кф.
Report on the ascent to the summit of Bodhona via the North-West spur, a Category 5B climb, undertaken in 2005.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (northern part), Alaudin Lakes area. Section № — 5.3.1., item № 27.
- Peak name: Bodkhona (5138 m)
- Route name: via northwestern counterfort
- Difficulty category: 5B
- Route character: rock
- Height difference: 1420 m Route length: 2123 m Length of sections: V difficulty category — 255 m, VI difficulty category — 13 m Average steepness:
Route Description: СЗ кф.
Report on the passage of a Category III route to the summit of Bodhona (5138 m) via the North-West Counterfort, Fan Mountains.
Ascent Logbook
- Technical category.
- Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains, northern part.
- Peak "Bodkhona", 5138 m, 5B category via the Northwest Counterfort, G. Gulnev 67.
- Route type: rock.
- Route elevation gain: 1440 m (by altimeter); route length — 2940 m; length of sections with V category complexity — 250 m; VI category — 130 m; average steepness: main part of the route — 55–60 degrees (up to Gulnev's shoulder); total route — 45 degrees.
- Pitons left on the route: 0.
Pitons hammered on the route:
- Bolt pitons: 2*/1*
- Rock pitons: 8* + 10/2
Route Description: СЗ кф.
Report on the ascent of the national team to the summit of Bodhona (5138 m) via the northwestern spurs, category 5B route in the Fan Mountains in 2005.
Ascent Passport
- Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (northern part), Alaudin Lakes area. Section No. 5.3.1., item No. 27.
- Peak name: Bodkhona (5138 m)
- Route name: via the northwestern counterfort
- Difficulty category: 5B
- Route character: rock
- Height difference: 1420 m Route length: 2123 m Length of sections: V difficulty category – 255 m, VI difficulty category – 13 m Average steepness:
Route Description: СЗ кф.
Report on the ascent made by a group of climbers of category 5B route to the summit of Bodkhona via the North-West buttress.
Ascent Log
- Technical category.
- Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains, northern part.
- Peak "Bodkhona", 5138 m, 5B category of difficulty via the North-Western Counterfort, G. Gulnev 1967.
- Route type: rock.
- Route elevation gain: 1440 m (by altimeter); route length — 2940 m; length of sections with V category of difficulty — 250 m; VI category of difficulty — 130 m; average steepness of the main part of the route — 55–60°, (up to Gulnev's shoulder); entire route — 45°.
- Hooks left on the route: 0.
Hooks hammered on the route:
- Bolted: 2* / 1*
- Rock: 8* + 10 / 2
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
Technical description of a category 5B route to the summit of Bodhona via the D.3 wall in the Fann Mountains, climbed by a team of mountaineers in 1986.
Climbing Passport
I. Category — technical 2. Fann Mountains 3. Bodkhona peak via S.W. wall (Kolonna?) 4. 5B category of difficulty 5. Height difference: wall part: 1000 m, total: 1304 m. Length: wall part: 1018 m, total: 1498 m. Length of 5–6 category of difficulty sections: 838 m, of which 6 category of difficulty: 273 m. Average steepness of the route's wall part: 79° 6. Pitons driven:
| rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| 23 | - | 221 | 1 |
Route Description: правой части 3 стены
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Bodhona via the right part of the western wall, rated as 6th category of difficulty.
RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION
PASSPORT
- Class of technical ascents
- Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge (northern part)
- Bodkhona, 5138 m, via the right part of the western wall (N. Vlodarchik route)
- 6B category of difficulty
- Height difference from the base of the wall to the summit - 1088 m, length - 1810 m. Height difference from the base of the wall to the ridge - 935 m, length - 1210 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 945 m. Average steepness of main sections - 71° (4150-4985), including 6th category: 87° (4200-4270), 85° (4330-4380), 85° (4395-4410), 87° (4475-4495), 62° (4505-4520), 92° (4660-4685), 87° (4785-4885).
- Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |
Route Description: правой части 3 стены
Description of a challenging mountaineering route, category 6 difficulty, to the summit of Bodhona (5304 m) in the Fann Mountains, climbed by a group of athletes in 1979.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class —
- Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
- Peak Bodkhona, 5304 m, western wall.
- Difficulty category — 6B.
- Route characteristics Height difference — 1000 m (wall section). Average steepness of the wall section — 80°. Length of sections:
- III difficulty category — 130 m
- IV difficulty category — 125 m