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Description of the first ascent of the Kelbashi peak (3243 m) via the northern ridge, complexity category 3А₃, with a detailed analysis of the route and technical characteristics of the sections.

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FIRST ASCENT ROUTE DIAGRAM (according to UNAF) to the summit of Kelbashi via the North ridge ~16 km

I+ The summit of Kelbashi (3243 m, photo I) is situated in the Sofiyskiy ridge between the Stolichny and Karadjasch passes. It is present on all topographic maps. The name is local. The first ascent was made by a group led by S.A. Chuеnko in January 1982 as part of the traverse "60 let KChAO–Peshtera–Septemvri–Kelbashi". This route is categorized as 3A. From the Karadjasch pass to the summit of Batak via the south ridge, there is a categorized route 2A. The present first ascent was made within the framework of the Stavropol krai sports committee alpinada "Arkhyz-88" by members of the rescue team of this event. The north-eastern slopes and part of the north ridge up to the junction with the spur running down to the summit of Septemvri (see the orographic diagram) are covered with ice. Only the summit area is free of it. From the "Syrzavod" base camp, the path initially follows the Kashka-Ecshek stream, then in the direction of the saddle between the summits of 60 let KChAO and Peshtera. Approximate time — 3 hours.

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Report on the first ascent of the traverse of the peaks Kel, 3200, and Kelbashi via the eastern wall and ridge, made by a group of climbers on August 8, 2010, with a complexity category of 3B.

Report on the First Ascent of the Traverse v. 3150 (Kel) — v. 3200 — v. 3243 (Kelbashi) via the E Wall and E Ridge

Approximate difficulty: 3B category. Completed by the "Ushba" Climbing Club team on August 8, 2010, under the leadership of Dmitry Anatolyevich Lyublinsky. Address: Russia, Saratov, Khimicheskaya St., 7, apt. 154, phone: (8452) 911 633, +7 927 109 21 10

Climbing Report

  1. Type of ascent: Combined
  2. Region: Caucasus: Sofiya Valley
  3. Peak, route: v. 3150 (Kel) — v. 3200 — v. 3243 (Kelbashi) via the E Wall and E Ridge
  4. Anticipated difficulty: 3B, category: first ascent
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — approximately 270 m, route length — approximately 1615 m,
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Description of the ascent route to the summit via the pass and a col at an altitude of 3150 meters.

product under the start of the route v. 3150 (kel)

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Ascent to Elbrus peak via the classic route with a glacier, 65 km long and 2700 m elevation gain.

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Description of the first ascent to the unnamed peak 175 years of Kislovodsk (3100 m) via the southern edge and tyre ridge, difficulty category 1B.

ASCENT CERTIFICATE

  1. Type of ascent: rock climbing.
  2. Region of ascent: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvam mountain region to Marukh pass.
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "175 years of Kislovodsk", via the southern ridge, 3100 m.
  4. Expected difficulty category: 1B.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 300 m, average slope — 40°–45°, route length: | D.C. | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | |------|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|
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Description of a 1B category complexity mountain route to the peak named after Bulgarian-Soviet friendship (3206 m) via the Western ridge on the Northwest spur of the Sofia ridge.

I. CLIMBING CLASS

Rocky terrain 2. CLIMBING AREA, RIDGE Western Caucasus, North-Western spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the Pshish and Sofia river valleys 3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE, ROUTE CHARACTER Bolgaro-Sovetskoy druzhby, 3206 m, via the Western ridge, rocky terrain 4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY 1B 5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS Height difference 350 m, average steepness — 35°

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First ascent description of an unnamed peak 3206 m in the Western Caucasus via North-Eastern slope and North-Western ridge, route category 2Б.

CLIMBING CLASS

CLIMBING AREA PEAK, ROUTE ESTIMATED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS

  • NUMBER OF PITOONS DRIVEN
  • NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS
  • NUMBER OF NIGHTS ON THE ROUTE
  • CLIMB LEADERS PARTICIPANTS
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Description of the route for the first ascent of category 2B difficulty level to the peak named after Bulgarian-Soviet friendship in the Western Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

ASCENT CLASS— rock climbing
ASCENT AREA— Western Caucasus, North-West spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the Pshish and Sofia river valleys
PEAK, ROUTE— Bolgaro-Sovetskoy druzhby (BSD) via the Northern slope and South-Western counterfort
ASSUMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY— 2B
ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS— rock climbing, absolute height difference ~ 300 m
NUMBER OF PLACED PROTECTION— II
NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS— 4 h (from the start of the route to the summit)
NUMBER OF NIGHTS— no overnight stays required on the route
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### Climbing Route to Lashb Peak on the Western Caucasus, Category 1B Complexity Details on the approach and ascent to Lashb Peak, covering the essentials for a successful climb.

Characteristics of the Region

The peak "Layub" is located in the Western Caucasus where the Gagrinsky Range adjoins the Main Range. The area is relatively undeveloped in terms of alpinism. There are two classified routes in the region: – to peak "Smidovich" (3445 m) — category 3A difficulty – to peak "Layub" (2998 m) — category 2B difficulty The following peaks are of interest: – "Tsyndyshka" (3134 m) – peak "Kardyvach" (3041 m) – "Tskhvoa" (3241 m) – "Agepsta" (3263 m)

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Traversing the "Lafb" massif from east to west, category 2B, includes passing 4 gendarmes and the summit along crumbling granite rocks and snowy-icy sections.

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Description

Traversing the "Laub" massif from east to west, category 2B difficulty. Height — 2900 m. (Photo № 2) From the base camp at "Kardyvach" lake, the path to the saddle of the Main ridge of "Laub" peak goes along the trail to the snow cone protruding from the couloir. We cross the snow cone from right to left and ascend to the steep grassy slopes covered with dense snow. Having reached the oval ridge, we continue moving straight north along it, in the direction of the visible couloir, which leads to the saddle — the beginning of the traverse. The path along the snowy oval ridge is straightforward and takes 1 hour 30 minutes to reach the couloir. Couloir:

  • Completely covered with snow, with ice patches in some areas;
  • Pressing to the left side, we use an ice axe for belay;
  • On the way, there are small protruding rock outcrops, which are passed directly — the rocks are straightforward;
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