ASCENT REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO PEAK 3031 (ORLYONOK NORTH-WEST) VIA THE “NORTH-WEST RIDGE” ROUTE, CATEGORY III (ROCK) BY THE TEAM FROM “SAUK-PAY” CLUB (SYKTYVKAR) IN MAY 2018

YEAR OF REPORT: 2018

I. Ascent Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Leader's Full Name, Sports Rank	Vyacheslav Viktorovich Babkin: Candidate for Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist, Yekaterinburg
1.2	Participants' Full Names, Sports Ranks	1. Pyotr Yuryevich Plyukhin: 1st sports category, Moscow 2. Natalya Yuryevna Lisovskaya: 2nd sports category, Smolensk
1.3	Coach's Full Name	Sergey Vasilyevich Zhuravlyov: Candidate for Master of Sports, 1st category instructor-methodologist, Syktyvkar
1.4	Organization	Non-profit partnership "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'" (Syktyvkar)
	2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Supplement to the Route Description

Orlyonok NW 3A

Approach and descent path from the Orlyonok valley Approach to the Orlyonok 3A route via the NW ridge. Approximately 1.5 hours from the campsite at the upper lake Technical photo of the 3A Orlyonok NW route from the Orlyonok peak cirque

Description of the Descent from Orlyonok NW Peak

Peak 3010 (Orlyonok Centralny) Route: via the south-eastern wall Difficulty category — 3B cat. dif. (rocky) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlyonok gully, Orlyonok mountain spur Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3010 (Orlyonok Centralny) Via the south-eastern wall, category 3B (rocky). At the climbing competitions “Kubok Pobedy” by NP “Klub severnykh puteshestvii ‘Sauk-Pai’” (class “First ascents”) in

Peaks 3010 (Orlenok Centralny), 3031 (Orlenok Vostochny). Route: traverse of peaks 3010 and 3031 from west to east. Category of complexity — 2A (rocky) Leader: V. Zakharov. Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Orlenok mountain spur. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to peaks 3010 (Orlenok Centralny), 3031 (Orlenok Vostochny) "Traverse of peaks 3010 and 3031 from west to east 2A category of complexity (rocky)". At the competitions in mountaineering "Cup of Victory" NP "Club of northern travels "Sauk-Pai"" (class "First ascents") in May 2013. Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic Mountain country: Western Caucasus Gully:

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to KMGV-2001 — Western Caucasus, Belaya River gorge, section 2, subsection 2.1. Krasnodar and Stavropol regions up to Marukh pass.
2. Name of the peak, its height, route name — Mt. Oshen (2804 m) via the northeastern counterfort and northern slope.
3. Route character — combined.
4. Assumed 1Bz category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route height difference — 426 m. Route length — 900 m. Length of sections: V category of difficulty — 0 m, VI category of difficulty — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 30°.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Western Caucasus
3. Peak, route: Oshen Mt. (2804 m) via the right part of the NW bastion
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B, first ascent
5. Wall height difference: 300 m Route length: 440 m Average wall slope: 50°
6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. CLIMBING CLASS – rock climbing
2. CLIMBING REGION – Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskiy Ridge between the upper reaches of the Sofiya and Psysh rivers
3. SUMMIT – peak "Panagyurishte" (proposed by the first ascenders) 3073 m via the 3rd buttress
4. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS – rock climbing on the buttress, height difference – 240 m, average steepness – 45°
5. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY GRADE – 2B
6. PITS DRIVEN – 10 rock anchors for belaying and self-belaying
7. TOTAL CLIMBING TIME – from the start of the route to the summit 3.5 hours
8. NUMBER OF OVERNIGHTS – not required on the route

• CLIMB LEADER: Oleinikov N.P. – Candidate Master of Sports

CLIMBING GRADE	— rock
CLIMBING REGION	— Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, the northern spur of the Sofiysky ridge between the valleys of the Psysh and Sofiya rivers
PEAK, ROUTE	— Peshtera (proposed by the first ascenders) via the North-West ridge
PROPOSED CATEGORY	— 2A (winter)
ROUTE CHARACTERISTIC	— rock and snow, mostly ridge, absolute height difference 500 m
PITONS DRIVEN	— 2 (when descending from the NE ridge)
MOVING HOURS	— 6 (from the start of the route to the summit)
NUMBER OF NIGHTS	— not required on the route
CLIMB LEADER	— Zaporozhchenko E.V., Candidate Master of Sports, instructor

The summit of PESHTERA is 3070 m and is located in the North-Eastern spur, running from the junction near the summit of Velbashi (3243 m). It rises like a rocky pyramid above the valley of the left tributary of the Sofia River, which flows into the latter near the "Syrzavod" glade. To the northwest of PESHTERA, separated by a col with an absolute height of 2800 m, are the rocky bastions of the summit named "60th anniversary of KChAO" (2970 m). Both summits are visible from the "Syrzavod" glade, where the base camp was located during the winter alpinism event (see orographic scheme, photo ©). The 3070 m summit, as an object of first ascent, was proposed by the coaching council of the federation to a group of athletes under the leadership of R.A. Gorda. The only acceptable approach from the point of view of avalanche safety was the eastern spur of the NE ridge, descending from the Eastern pre-summit of the "60-let KChAO" peak (consultations with candidate of geographical sciences, avalanche specialist VGI in Nalchik, Mr. Runich A.V.). From the "Syrzavod" glade with an absolute height of 1930 m, descent to the Sofia River and in the area of the mouth of its left tributary - crossing the river in the direction of the Eastern spur, leading to the NE ridge of the "60 let KChAO" summit. Along the spur, overgrown with forest in the lower part, straight up, leaving avalanche-prone slopes on the right and left. Having gone beyond the forest boundary, continue to move along the watershed line to a group of separate trees and further - to the last spruce, from which the rocks of the spur begin. The mentioned spruce is visible from the "Syrzavod" glade. Further along the wide rocky spur - exit to the junction point of the NE ridge, having a mark of 2590 m (660 m height difference). Here is the starting point of the route (2-3 hours of ascent along a pre-organized snow trail).

Route Description

Report

on the ascent to the summit 2839.8 m Pseashkha West via the south-west ridge presumably 1B cat. diff. First ascent

Climbing Passport

1. Area: Western Caucasus, Krasnaya Polyana area, Pslukh valley, section 2.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks.
2. Summit: 2839.8 m Pseashkha West, via the south-west ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 700 m.