ASCENT REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO PEAK 3031 (ORLYONOK NORTH-WEST) VIA THE “NORTH-WEST RIDGE” ROUTE, CATEGORY III (ROCK) BY THE TEAM FROM “SAUK-PAY” CLUB (SYKTYVKAR) IN MAY 2018
YEAR OF REPORT: 2018
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Leader's Full Name, Sports Rank | Vyacheslav Viktorovich Babkin: Candidate for Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist, Yekaterinburg |
| 1.2 | Participants' Full Names, Sports Ranks | 1. Pyotr Yuryevich Plyukhin: 1st sports category, Moscow 2. Natalya Yuryevna Lisovskaya: 2nd sports category, Smolensk |
| 1.3 | Coach's Full Name | Sergey Vasilyevich Zhuravlyov: Candidate for Master of Sports, 1st category instructor-methodologist, Syktyvkar |
| 1.4 | Organization | Non-profit partnership "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'" (Syktyvkar) |
| 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object | ||
| 2.1 | Region | Western Caucasus, Arkhyz |
| 2.2 | Valley | Irkis |
| 2.3 | Section Number according to the 2013 Classification Table | 2.1 |
| 2.4 | Peak Name and Height | Orlyonok North-West 3031 m |
| 2.5 | Geographic Coordinates of the Peak (Latitude/Longitude), GPS Coordinates | Geographic coordinates: 42°22.60'; 41°12.78'; GPS coordinates: 43.46262; 41.20434 |
| 3. Route Characteristics | ||
| 3.1 | Route Name | Via the North-West Ridge |
| 3.2 | Proposed Category of Difficulty | 3A (rock) |
| 3.3 | Degree of Route Exploration | First ascent |
| 3.4 | Relief Characteristics of the Route | Rock |
| 3.5 | Height Difference of the Route (altimeter or GPS data) | From the base camp near the mouth of the Belaya River (height - 1670 m) to the peak (3031 m) - 1369 m. Height difference of the technical part (R0 - 2500 m) to the peak (3031 m) - 1531 m. |
| 3.6 | Route Length (in meters) | 2330 m |
| 3.7 | Technical Elements of the Route | I category of difficulty combination - 500 m. II category of difficulty ice/rock/combination - 975 m. III category of difficulty ice/rock/combination - 220 m. IV category of difficulty ice/rock/combination - 30 m. Glacier crossing - none. Rappel descent (on descent from the peak) - 50 m. |
| 3.8 | Descent from the Peak | After rappelling, descent along a snowy slope into the Orlyonok gully, then to the Taulu meadow. |
| 3.9 | Additional Route Characteristics | 1. Complex wading crossing of the Psysh River on the approach. 2. Long approach with significant height gain to the start of the technical part of the route. 3. Local sections of category II difficulty on the approach. 4. Crampons and ice axe are mandatory on the approach during the off-season. |
| 4. Characteristics of Team Actions | ||
| 4.1 | Movement Time | 14 hours |
| 4.2 | Overnight Stays | None |
| 4.3 | Route Start | 4:00, May 4, 2018 |
| 4.4 | Summit Ascent | 12:00, May 4, 2018 |
| 4.5 | Return to Base Camp | 18:00, May 4, 2018 |
| 5. Report Responsible Person | ||
| 5.1 | Full Name, e-mail | Sergey Vasilyevich Zhuravlyov, [email protected] |
II. Ascent Description
1. Ascent Object Characteristics
1.1. General Photo of the Peak
Photo of Orlyonok mountain from the north-west, from the south-eastern slopes of Goryacheva Rock mountain. The Orlyonok North-West peak - the object of the first ascent, is highlighted in a larger font.
Photo taken on May 3, 2018.
The letters "БЛ" mark the location of the base camp in the Irkis valley, on the bank of the Psysh River, near the mouth of the Belaya River.
In the background, the nodal peaks of the Orlyonok gully are visible - Kara-Djash mountain and peak 3200 (Taulan or "Dimitrov-100"). The height mark of 3226 m is set according to old cartographic data.
1.2. General Photo of the Peak's Rock Tower
Photo 1. The summit rock tower with the main landmarks marked. Photo 2. The beginning of the technical part of the route. The summit is not visible, hidden by the "Ostry" sentinel. In the gully, the group of first ascenders is visible, approaching the key - a chimney with a plug.
1.3. Route Profile Photo
Photo of the route profile from the north, from the Irkis valley, from the right bank of the Psysh River, from the base camp near the mouth of the Belaya River. Date of shooting - May 7, 2018.
The beginning of the technical part of the route is marked with the index R0 (initial reference point).
1.4. Panoramic Photo of the Area
Panoramic photo of the main peaks of the Kara-Djash and Orlyonok spurs in the north-western part of the Sofiyskiy ridge. Photo taken in May 2018 from the north-west, from the summit of peak 3131 (Goryacheva Rock South). In mountaineering literature, peak 3200 is referred to as Taulan and "Dimitrov-100". Peak 3226.7 is referred to as Bolgarsko-Soviet Friendship (BSF) and Kush-Kaya. Peak 3031.3 is referred to as Orlyonok peak in mountaineering literature. This mountain has three peaks - rock towers: eastern, central, and north-western. The nodal peak of the Sofiyskiy ridge - Sofia peak (3637.4) is also marked on the panorama.
1.5. Area Map
Enlarged fragment of the topographic map of the Irkis valley, scale: 1 cm - 500 meters (1 km per square).
The path of the first ascenders' group is marked on the map: base camp in the Irkis valley (on the left bank of the Psysh River near the confluence of the Belaya River) - peak 3031 (Orlyonok North-West) - Orlyonok gully - Sofia River valley - Taulu meadow - base camp in the Irkis valley.
Logistics in the Ascent Area
The Irkis valley is part of the Arkhyz mountain region (Western Caucasus), located 15 km south-west of the Arkhyz settlement, in the Zelenchuksky district of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic. The name of the valley is official, marked on the topographic maps of the Russian Federation. The valley (gorge) is formed by the ridges: in the upper reaches of the Psysh River - the Main Caucasian ridge with the highest peak in the region, Pshish; the right bank of the Psysh River and the Irkis valley - the Sofiyskiy ridge, which closes the Orlyonok spur with the nodal peak 3031 (Orlyonok); the left bank of the Psysh River and the Irkis valley - the Arkasara ridge and its north-eastern spur Gabulu-Chat with the nodal peak of the spur - Goryacheva Rock.
The base camp in the Irkis valley near the mouth of the Belaya River is easily accessible by high-clearance vehicles from the Arkhyz settlement (3 hours), from the Taulu meadow (1 hour).
Orlyonok mountain is located in the Orlyonok spur on the north of the Sofiyskiy ridge, between the Psysh and Sofia rivers. Orlyonok mountain has three distinct peaks - rock towers. There are established mountaineering routes to Orlyonok East and Orlyonok Central from the north-east, from the Orlyonok gully.
The Orlyonok North-West peak - a rock tower located on the north-west of the Orlyonok massif, closest to the Psysh River valley, was not освоена by mountaineers, so it was chosen for the first ascent.
The route along the north-west ridge is logically sound. The approach from the base camp to the start of the route takes 3 hours. The wading crossing of the Psysh River is complex on the approach. The height difference from the base camp (BL - 1670 m) to the start of the route (R0 - 2500 m) is about 900 m. On the approach to the start of the technical part of the route, there are sections of mountain relief of category I-II difficulty. In winter and off-season, crampons and ice axes are mandatory.
Panoramic photo of the north-eastern spurs of the Sofiyskiy ridge: Kara-Djash spur (in the background); Orlyonok spur (foreground). Photo taken from the Irkis valley, from the summit of Goryacheva Rock mountain.
The route of the first ascent is marked on the photo: white - approach to the start of the route, red - technical part of the route.
The main peaks of the Kara-Djash spur and the three peaks of Orlyonok mountain are marked on the photo.
2. Route Characteristics
2.1. Technical Photograph
Photo of the upper (technical) part of the route to peak 3031 (Orlyonok North-West) "Along the north-west ridge from the Psysh River valley". May 2018.
2.2. Technical Characteristics of Route Sections
Diagram in UIAA symbols, table of technical sections.
| Section № | Relief Characteristics | Category of Difficulty | Length, m | Type and Number of Hooks |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| R0 | Organization of links, start of the technical part of the route. Altitude mark 2500 m above sea level. | |||
| R0–R1 | Snow, scree | I | 500 m | 0 |
| R1–R2 | Snow-scree gully | II | 100 m | 0 |
| R2–R3 | Chimney with a plug, convenient station | IV | 30 m | 4 wedges |
| R3–R4 | Rock wall, convenient station | III | 10 m | 2 wedges |
| R4–R5 | Oblique ledges, convenient station | II | 200 m | 0 |
| R5–R6 | Rock wall, convenient station | III | 20 m | 3 wedges |
| R6–R7 | Oblique ledges, convenient station | II | 500 m | 0 |
| R7–R8 | Rock wall with a counterfort, convenient station | III | 60 m | 4 wedges |
| R8–R9 | Bypassing the "Ostry" sentinel. Ledges. | II | 150 m | 0 |
| R9–R10 | Rock edge, convenient station | III | 50 m | 6 wedges |
| R10–R11 | Rock wall, convenient station | III | 60 m | 6 wedges |
| R11–R12 | Rock ridge, series of oblique ledges | II | 250 m | 8 wedges |
| R12 | Peak 3031 m (Orlyonok North-West). |
3. Team Actions Characteristics
3.1. Brief Description of Route Passage.
| Section № | Description | Photo Number |
|---|---|---|
| APPROACH | From the base camp, located above the confluence of the Belaya River into the Psysh River, follow a dirt road for about 40 minutes to a ford. The ford is not equipped. The river meanders, changing its course annually, so a preliminary inspection of the crossing point is required. Wading crossing requires organization of belay for the first participant and setting up a rope for the group (groups) of climbers, as even in the early morning, the water level is high (30-40 cm) and the current is strong. After crossing, ascend up snowy gullies in the forest zone. There are sections of steep snow and small rock tiers - category I-II difficulty. After passing through the forest zone, exit to alpine meadows and ascend along the meadows, then scree to the north-western plateau. The north-western rock ridge begins from this plateau. | |
| R0 | Organization of links - a plateau from which the north-western rock ridge begins. A convenient place for a short rest, snack, and equipment preparation. | |
| R0–R1 | Snowy, scree ridge. Simultaneous movement until entering a snowy-scree gully (on the right). Self-belay techniques are used during ascent. | №1 |
| R1–R2 | Passing a snowy gully at the beginning of the key section - a chimney with a plug. Ascent in three pitches with alternating belay. Station on an ice axe. Under the chimney with a plug, there is a large chip allowing for station organization and rope anchoring. Steepness of the section - 45°. Length - 40 m. Category of difficulty - II. | №2 |
| R2–R3 KEY! | Chimney with a plug - the key section of the route. Basic station - a convenient chip under the chimney. Smooth, monolithic rocks. Difficulty in finding intermediate belay points. Alternating belay with rope anchoring. Steepness of the section - 60°. Length - 30 m. Category of difficulty - IV. | №2A (close-up) |
| R3–R4 | Passing a smooth rock wall. Basic station above the chimney with a plug - a loop on a large rock mass with a counter-wedge. Movement with alternating belay. Smooth, monolithic rocks. Steepness of the section - 60°. Length - 10 m. Category of difficulty - III. | №3 |
| R4–R5 | Series of oblique, inclined ledges. Simultaneous movement with mutual belay on a shortened rope. Active use of relief, in some cases - loops on protrusions. Steepness of the section - 20-25°. Length - 200 m. Category of difficulty - II. | |
| R5–R6 | Rock wall in the ridge. Psychologically difficult place - drop-offs on both sides. Overcome "head-on". Alternating belay. Rope anchoring. Relief allows for the use of medium-sized friends. Convenient station on a rock chip at the bottom. Convenient station on a large stone block at the top. Steepness of the section - 50°. Length - 20 m. Category of difficulty - III. | |
| R6–R7 | Series of inclined ledges. Simultaneous movement on a shortened rope, using protrusions and relief bends for mutual belay. Active use of relief, in some cases - loops on protrusions. Steepness of the section - 20-25°. Length - 500 m. Category of difficulty - II. | №4 |
| R7–R8 | Rock wall with a counterfort. Movement with alternating belay. The wall has a pronounced rock counterfort, making it easy to climb. Stations for belay at the bottom and top - large rock chips for big loops. Steepness of the section - 55°. Length - 60 m. Category of difficulty - III. | |
| R8–R9 | Bypassing the "Ostry" sentinel (on the right). Series of oblique, inclined ledges, snowy slopes. Simultaneous movement, on some sections - with alternating belay. Steepness of the section - up to 45°. Length - 500 m. Category of difficulty - II. | №5 |
| R9–R10 | Passing a rock edge. Sharp rock edge. Movement with alternating belay. Convenient platform at the bottom, station made of three wedges (large hex, medium stoppers). Reliable chip for a big loop at the top. Steepness of the section - 40°. Length - 50 m. Category of difficulty - III. | №6 |
| R10–R11 | Passing a wall. On the right side (along the route). Movement with alternating belay. Intermediate points used friends of medium size. Convenient stations on large rock blocks at the top and bottom. Steepness of the section - 50°. Length - 60 m. Category of difficulty - III. | №7 |
| R11–R12 | Rock ridge, in the upper part - a series of oblique ledges. Simultaneous movement with mutual belay on a shortened rope. Active use of relief, in some cases - loops on protrusions. Steepness of the section - 30°. Length - 250 m. Category of difficulty - II. | №8 |
| R12 | Summit - a truncated cone with a platform on top, accommodating up to 12 people. Cairn set by the first ascenders in the center of the platform. | |
| DESCENT | Descent from the summit is technically complex. First, descend along a rock edge towards the Orlyonok gully, to a large stone block. Rappel - west - into a snowy-scree mulde (towards the Kara-Djash spur). Loop on a large rock block, below the saddle between the Orlyonok North-West and Orlyonok Central peaks. After the first rappel, there is another 15 m, more gentle, with the last person descending by climbing. Further descent along snowy slopes, traversing the Orlyonok Central and Orlyonok East peaks. Crossing the scree saddle of the ridge and descending along the Orlyonok gully to the Taulu meadow. |
4. Photo Illustrations
Photo №1. Section R0–R1 - passing a snowy ridge and north-western gully on the approach to the key section of the route. Photo by P. Plyukhin. In the photo: V. Babkin, N. Lisitskaya.
5. Team Photo at the Summit by the Control Cairn
5.1. General Views with Approach to the Summit
Section R11–R12. Photo from the Orlyonok River valley, from the pre-summit plateau. The group of first ascenders approaches the summit.
5.2. Group at the Summit
Summit - R12 - group at the summit. Photo by N. Lisitskaya. In the photo: V. Babkin and P. Plyukhin building a cairn at the summit.
6. Route Safety Assessment
The route to peak 3031 (Orlyonok North-West) is a characteristic category III route, allowing to test not only the technical knowledge, skills, and abilities of climbers with 3rd sports category and above but also their physical fitness, tactical preparedness, and orientation on mountain relief.
Communication on the route was carried out using VHF radios, as the entire route from the Irkis valley is in direct line of sight from the base camp. Mobile phone communication with the Arkhyz settlement and emergency services is possible throughout the technical section (from an altitude of 2500 m above sea level).
The ridge route enhances safety when used for training and sports purposes. Throughout the route, there are convenient ledges and platforms for organizing stations. The relief allows for the use of various wedges for intermediate belay points and self-belay. In the off-season, it is a characteristic combined route, requiring participants to be able to move on snowy-icy relief and organize belay points using an ice axe. Unlike traditional category III routes, this route has two technically complex sections not included in the natural obstacles of the route: on the approach - a complex wading crossing of the Psysh River, requiring organization of belay even in the early morning.
For descent organization:
- Descend to the saddle between the Orlyonok North-West and Orlyonok Central peaks.
- Further descent along ledges to the left (along the route) to a large rock outcrop.
- On the outcrop - a rappel loop. (It's advisable to have a spare expendable loop 5-7 m.)
From the outcrop, 50 m of rope is sufficient to reach the snowy slope of the mulde of the nameless glacier to the north-west of the peak.
CONCLUSION
V. V. Babkin (Yekaterinburg, Candidate for Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist) - ascent leader: The route meets the requirements for category III routes. Similar category III routes - Oktyabrenok peak via the left part of the NW edge (Pamir, Tuyuk-Su), Koyavgan via the E. ridge (Caucasus, Adyr-Su), peak 3226 (Dimitrov-100 or Taulan) via the western gully and northern ridge (Western Caucasus, Arkhyz). The route is a ridge route, thus objectively safe. Technical sections are easily recognizable. The route has an abundance of rock chips, allowing for reliable belay points and stations. The complex rappel with rope retrieval on descent is an acceptable component of a mountaineering route. The route can be used by both sports climbers for skill development and as a training route for teaching climbers with 3rd sports category.
S. V. Zhuravlyov (Syktyvkar, Candidate for Master of Sports, 1st category instructor-methodologist) - leader and senior coach of the "Cup of Sauk-Pai Club of Northern Travels" alpine event - 2018 (First Ascents category): This ascent can be classified as a first ascent. It was carried out by a group of sports climbers ranging from 2nd sports category to Candidate for Master of Sports, who have experience in ascending category III routes in different mountain regions of the Russian Federation, as well as experience in first ascents of mountaineering routes: leader - V. V. Babkin (Yekaterinburg, Candidate for Master of Sports) - experience in ascending category 6A routes, experience in first ascents - category 5B; in this Arkhyz region, V. V. Babkin has completed three category III routes and one category IV route as first ascents; N. Yu. Lisitskaya (Smolensk, 2nd sports category) - experience in ascending category 3B routes, experience in first ascents - category 2A; P. Plyukhin (Moscow, 1st sports category), experience in ascending category 5B routes.
The first ascent of this route is a continuation of the systematic exploration of mountaineering routes in Arkhyz and routes on the Orlyonok massif. Prior to this ascent, the north-western peak of Orlyonok mountain was outside the scope of mountaineering interests due to undeveloped approaches. The approach to the route was освоен before the ascent from the Irkis valley during an acclimatization exit and reconnaissance. Then, the ascent was made along the most logical path from the north-west along the pronounced ridge.
There is no reason to doubt the quality of the route description provided by the group of sports climbers, for whom this ascent does not affect their career growth but is an ascent via a new route to a new peak. I believe that this route should be included in the classifier as a category III rock route and recommended for sports and training ascents.
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