27.12.83

Passport

Ascent to Mt. Mamisong-hokh via icefalls of the North Face

1. Ascent category — snow and ice climb.
2. Ascent area — Caucasus, Tsey.
3. Ascent route — “Mamisong-hokh, 4358 m, via icefalls of the North Face.”
4. Route description:
   • route length — 920 m
   • height difference — 858 m
   • average steepness — 55°

Report

of the combined team of the city of Kiev on the repeated ascent of the central rib of the northern wall of the Mamisongkhok peak. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge, July 25-31, 1964 The group dedicated their ascent to the 20th anniversary of the liberation of the city of Kiev from the German fascist invaders.

Brief characteristics of the Tsey mountain region and the route taken by the group

The Tsey mountain region is located to the north of the Main Caucasian Range, including the peaks Nokausak-Zayne to the west and Mamisongkhok to the east. The main peaks of the region are located on the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs, which bound large glaciers: Karaugom, Tsey, and Skazsky. The most significant peaks are:

• Uilpata-tau
• Chanchakhi-khokh

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range 3. Mamisontau (4358 m) — through the center of the northern wall triangle 4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff. combined (first ascent) 5. Height difference — 918 m including the "triangle" — 490 m. Length — 1410 m. Length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 845 m, including 6 cat. diff. — 175 m. Sections:

• 3518–3534
• 3596–3694
• 3730–3770

PASSPORT

I. Climbing category — technical. 2. Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. 3. Mamisong (4358 m) via the center of the north wall triangle. 4. Second ascent — 5B cat. tech. combined. 5. Height difference — 820 m. Including triangle — 340 m. Length — 1200 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. tech. — 600 m. Of which 6 cat. — 130 m.

Ukrainian Council SDSO "Burevestnik"

V. Mamison, 4360 m, via the right part of the North face. 5B

Team composition:

1. Bodnik V.N.
2. Barsukov V.A.
3. Derkach A.A.
4. Kharianyk I.V. Climbing on fixed ropes. R2–R3. Climbing on fixed ropes. R10–R11.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Eastern part of the Central Caucasus, Bolshaya Tseyskaya horseshoe
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Mamisong, 4360 m, via the right part of the North face
4. Presumed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 995 m length — 1468 m average steepness of the route — 50° average steepness of the wall section — 73°

Kharkov

Report

on the 1967 Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship by the Kharkov regional council team of the "Avangard" sports society in the category of technically complex ascents

Team Composition

Kharkov regional council of the "Avangard" sports society

1. Grigorenko-Prigoda Yuri Ivanovich

Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering, engaged in mountaineering since 1956, born in 1935, Ukrainian, non-partisan

2. Neborak Valentin Stepanovich

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; North-Eastern ridge-branch of Kalthberg peak; section number in Classification 2.7.
2. Monakh peak — 2757 m; from South along South-West ridge.
3. Proposed 2B category; first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route elevation difference — 400 m. Length about 1400 m. Steepness of key route sections up to 90°. Average steepness of the whole route — 20°.
6. Pitons left on the route — 5.
7. Team's walking hours — 6 hours, days — 1.
8. Leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich — Master of Sports

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Tsey Gorge, Eastern spur of Kaltberg peak
3. Peak, route: Monakh (2760 m) via the left Southeastern edge
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B, first ascent
5. Height difference: 460 m — of which the wall part is 410 m — total route length is 520 m — wall part length is 450 m — of which: 5 — 175 m

Russian Alpine Federation Classification Commission We request to include in the classification table a route to the peak Kaltberg East, 3300 m, with an ascent via the NE wall of Monakh (first ascent, approximately 5B category of difficulty), climbed by a team of instructors from the "Tsey" alpine camp during the III Championship of the Caucasian Territorial Administration of Alpine Camps in 1983 (rock climbing category). The ascent report was submitted at the time, but apparently was not reviewed due to technical reasons. Vice-President Alpinism Federation of Ukraine Zagirnyak M.V.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey valley