Report

of the combined team of the city of Kiev on the repeated ascent of the central rib of the northern wall of the Mamisongkhok peak.

Caucasus, Tsey Gorge, July 25-31, 1964

The group dedicated their ascent to the 20th anniversary of the liberation of the city of Kiev from the German fascist invaders.

Brief characteristics of the Tsey mountain region and the route taken by the group

The Tsey mountain region is located to the north of the Main Caucasian Range, including the peaks Nokausak-Zayne to the west and Mamisongkhok to the east.

The main peaks of the region are located on the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs, which bound large glaciers: Karaugom, Tsey, and Skazsky.

The most significant peaks are:

• Uilpata-tau
• Chanchakhi-khokh
• Songuti-khokh
• Karaugomy
• Mamisongkhok
• Adai-khokh.

In recent years, the attention of climbers has been focused on the unattempted route to the peak of Mamisongkhok via the northern rib.

True, in 1954, a group led by Master of Sports BAROV K.A. completed a route from the north via a short but objectively dangerous counterfort. This route is included in the classification as a 5B category route. Several groups have followed this route.

The route chosen by the group was the subject of several attempts, but due to a number of circumstances, primarily:

• very difficult meteorological conditions,
• characteristic of this region,

all attempts were unsuccessful.

Judging by the photographs available to the group, the central rib of the Northern wall of Mamisongkhok peak represents:

• a steeply falling counterfort turning into a wall,
• forming a monolithic rock triangle,
• bounded on the left and right by steep, narrow, and dangerous couloirs.

At the same time, the route along the rib rocks is safe, although technically very difficult.

A particular feature of the route is the poor weather conditions typical of the Tsey region. The Northern wall of Mamisongkhok is almost never exposed to sunlight. The group considered that the transition through the bergschrund, overcoming steep, tile-like rocks, and sections covered with flow ice would be particularly challenging.

According to photographs of the central rib and reconnaissance, there are no suitable places to set up a tent on the rib.

Group composition

combined team of the city of Kiev (instructors working in the Tsey alpine camp)

1. POLEVOI G.V. — team leader — Master of Sports of the USSR
2. KLOKOVA A.I. — participant — Master of Sports of the USSR
3. KROMOVA V.K. — participant — 1st sports category
4. BUBENEV V.I. — participant — 1st sports category

Observation group

1. DISHCHUK V. — leader — 2nd sports category
2. CHERNYSH M. — participant — 2nd sports category
3. LINEV V. — participant — 2nd sports category
4. MEDYANYI A. — participant — 2nd sports category

Team coach — Honored Coach of the Ukrainian SSR, Master of Sports of the USSR V. OVCHAROV.

Description of the route for the first ascent of the central rib of the northern wall of Mamisongkhok peak (4358 m) 5B category

Day one. July 25.

From the Tsey alpine camp along the trail alongside the Skaz-don river to the Tsey glacier. Passing through the "ram's foreheads," the Khitsan pass. We enter the Northern circus of the Tsey glacier. Following the middle of the glacier, we reach the snow plateau before the peaks of Mamisongkhok and Chanchakhi-khokh. We set up a bivouac on the snow plateau before the central rib of the northern wall of Mamisongkhok. From here, it's convenient to observe the route.

Day two. July 26.

The group observed the rockfall regime of the northern wall of Mamisongkhok, processed the lower part of the route to the bergschrund, and finalized the ascent path.

Day three. July 27.

From the bivouac located under the wall, the group departed at 6:00 and followed the avalanche debris, using pre-made steps (debris slope approximately 60°), with crampons and alternating insurance, approached the rock wall to the right of the couloir at the start of the bergschrund. Approximately 2 ropes. The bergschrund is a sheer, partially overhanging ice wall.

The ice is porous and greenish; to drive in a hook, one must cut through the upper layer of bubbly ice. The first person crossed using anchor hooks, hanging five three-step ladders, and driving in 8 ice hooks.

This area is exposed to rocks falling from the peak through the couloir.

The section from the rock wall to the rock islet, crossing the couloir, is approximately one and a half ropes, with 20 m of very difficult climbing (at the bergschrund crossing).

On the islet, 1 piton was driven in for insurance, and 1 wooden wedge. From the islet, we ascended to a large rock island in the middle of the couloir. We moved to the right (in the direction of travel) of this island across the flow ice of the couloir with insurance via rock and ice hooks. We traversed one rope (slope approximately 60°), then crossed the couloir to the right towards the rocks — one rope.

Crossing the couloir involved cutting steps and driving in ice hooks. The first person made the transition from the couloir to the rocks using a pendulum.

We ascended via an internal broad angle filled with flow ice, with a steepness of 65–70°. Overcoming this internal angle, approximately one rope long, was very difficult climbing and required driving in hooks as additional support. The internal angle led to a small shoulder of the lower rock massif. On the shoulder, the group cut out a platform in the ice for a sitting overnight stay at 19:00.

Here, the first control cairn was built. Throughout the day, the group did not remove their crampons. On the first day on the wall, they covered 6 ropes, driving in:

• rock hooks — 17 pcs.;
• aluminum wedges — 4 pcs.;
• wooden wedges — 3 pcs.;
• ice hooks into ice — 12 pcs.;
• ice hooks into rocks — 1 pc.;
• pitons — 1 pc.;

using 5 three-step ladders.

Day four. July 28.

Departure from the overnight stay at 7:00, moving left-up a very complex rock wall, a 4 m slab at 90° was traversed with the use of one three-step ladder. The first person went without a backpack; and further along complex rocks — one rope. Steepness 80–90°. The group traversed this section without backpacks, pulling them up later using blocks.

Then, right-up along an inclined steep shelf (8–10 m) above a sheer drop with complex climbing, and straight up onto a wide reddish shelf, from which up to the ridge — one rope.

Further, left along the ridge to the right part of the couloir-gully dividing the lower part of the rib, via steep rocks of medium difficulty with a steepness of about 70°. The rocks were sometimes wet — 2 ropes. To the right of the shoulder, at the narrowest part of the couloir-gully, we reached a platform — 1 rope, where we stopped for the night at 19:00. The overnight stay was semi-sitting, semi-reclining. At the overnight stay site, the second control cairn was built. On the second day on the wall, they covered 5 ropes, driving in:

• rock hooks — 26 pcs.;
• aluminum wedges — 2 pcs.;
• wooden hooks — 2 pcs.;
• ice hooks into rocks — 2 pcs.;

using 2 three-step ladders.

Day five. July 29.

At 7:00, from the overnight stay, movement went straight up the ridge. The rocks were complex, approximately 2 ropes. Further, there was one rope of climbing on rocks of medium difficulty.

Small snow-ice patches were encountered, which were bypassed via rocks. Insurance was via hooks, using:

• wooden wedges,
• aluminum wedges.

Further, we moved to the left of the ridge, where we passed through a split rock into a hole. The entire section via rocks of medium difficulty — 3 ropes, insurance via hooks and rock outcrops.

Then, along shelves to the left of the ridge, 10–12 m from the ice couloir — one rope of easy climbing.

We approached a very complex wall, 5 m high. We traversed it via a нависающая щель ("hanging crack"). «To the left of the crack, the wall rocks are black, to the right — light». The first person traversed without a backpack, driving in hooks as additional support, and the others were pulled up — one rope.

After traversing this section, the weather deteriorated sharply. Snow began to fall, and thunder was heard.

Further, we moved along the rock ridge of the counterfort, overcoming gendarmes head-on.

3 ropes, which turned into a snow-ice ridge — two ropes. The snow-ice ridge was sometimes very narrow; we traversed it on top, with a steepness of 55°. Insurance was alternating, via ice axes and hooks. Further, via destroyed rocks of medium difficulty, filled with flow ice and snow — 2 ropes. Further, we moved straight up and reached the ridge between the "gendarme" and the Main peak of Mamisongkhok. At 19:00, on the southern side of the ridge, we leveled and constructed a platform for a semi-reclining overnight stay. At the overnight stay site, the 3rd control cairn was built.

In total, on the third day on the wall, they covered 15 ropes, driving in:

• rock hooks — 15 pcs.;
• aluminum wedges — 4 pcs.;
• wooden wedges — 3 pcs.;
• ice hooks into rocks — 1 pc.

Day six. July 30.

Snowfall, strong wind, zero visibility. Forced rest day due to bad weather.

Day seven. July 31.

Departure at 8:00. From the overnight stay, along the ridge, one and a half ropes to an internal angle, from which we descended using a rappel 10 m and reached a steep, sharp ridge with a cornice to the south. Along it, one and a half ropes with careful insurance via ice axe, steepness 55–60°. Further, along a straightforward, wide snow ridge, bypassing crevices, we approached a narrow, steep snow ridge leading to the summit. Insurance via ice axe. Descent followed the 3B category route into the southern circus of the Tsey glacier.

General characteristics of the route

The height difference from the bergschrund to reaching the pre-summit ridge is about 800 m. The route length from the avalanche debris to the summit is approximately 1200 m. The group took 41 hours to complete the route, not counting the descent from the summit.

The average steepness of the central rib of the northern wall of Mamisongkhok is 65–70°. Sections with steepness up to 90° are frequently encountered. The route lacks places to set up a tent. The group organized only sitting overnight stays.

A feature of the route is the significant difficulty of overcoming the bergschrund with an overhanging section; overcoming steep, tile-like rocks covered with snow and flow ice; the complexity of the sharp snow-ice ridge above the rock triangle. The central rib of the northern wall of Mamisongkhok is almost never exposed to sunlight.

• Overcoming the bergschrund with an overhanging section
• Overcoming steep, tile-like rocks covered with snow and flow ice
• Complexity of the sharp snow-ice ridge above the rock triangle

To ensure safety on the route, the group used:

1. Rock hooks — 58 pcs.;
2. Anchor hooks — 2 pcs.;
3. Ice hooks — 16 pcs. (including 4 into rocks);
4. Wooden wedges — 8 pcs.;
5. Duraluminum wedges — 8 pcs.;
6. Three-step ladders — 8 pcs.

For bivouac organization (rock, ice hooks, wedges — 18 pcs.).

Overall, the route resembles an ascent up the northern wall of Chatyn-Tau 5B–6 category (Garf's route). But comparing the difficulty of these two routes, we concluded:

1. The sum of difficult rock sections on the central rib of Mamisong and Mamisongkhok exceeds that of the northern wall of Chatyn-Tau.
2. The transition through the bergschrund on the northern rib of Mamisongkhok is much more complicated than on the northern wall of Chatyn-Tau.
3. The average steepness of Mamisongkhok exceeds the average steepness of the northern wall of Chatyn-Tau.
4. On the rib of Mamisongkhok, there are no platforms for tent setup. On the northern wall of Chatyn-Tau — there are.
5. Overcoming the central rib of the northern wall of Mamisongkhok takes more time than overcoming the northern wall of Chatyn-Tau.
6. All this leads us to conclude that the route via the central rib of the northern wall of Mamisongkhok is significantly more intense than the northern wall of Chatyn-Tau, although both are rated 5B category.

By the nature of the rocks, the route via the central rib of Mamisongkhok resembles routes such as:

• Bashkara via the northern wall
• Aksaut via the northwestern wall

Table of main route characteristics: first ascent to Mamisongkhok peak via the central rib of the northern wall

Height difference on the route 850 m, including the most complex sections 550 m, steepness 65–70°.

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Team leader Master of Sports of the USSR (G. V. Polevoi)

Team coach Honored Coach of the Ukrainian SSR Master of Sports of the USSR (V.V. Ovcharov)