Ukrainian Council SDSO "Burevestnik"
V. Mamison, 4360 m, via the right part of the North face. 5B
Team composition:
- Bodnik V.N.
- Barsukov V.A.
- Derkach A.A.
- Kharianyk I.V.
Climbing on fixed ropes. R2–R3.
Climbing on fixed ropes. R10–R11.
Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to v. Mamison via the right part of the North face
| Date | Designation | Average steepness in degrees | Length in meters | Relief characteristic | Difficulty category of the section | Condition | Weather conditions | Hooks: Rock | Hooks: Ice | Hooks: Bolt | Hooks: Nut | Hooks: Total | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 15, 1980 processing | R0–R1 | 90° | 15 | bergschrund wall | 6 | loose ice | good weather | 9 | 7 | ||||
| R1–R2 | 70° | 90 | ice slope | 5 | very dense ice | II | |||||||
| \multicolumn{14}{ | l | }{Departure at 14:00, end of processing at 18:00. Climbing hours — 4 h.} | |||||||||||
| July 16, 1980 Passing the previously processed path | |||||||||||||
| R2–R3 | 70° | 80 | rock island | 4 | destroyed | " | 6 | 6 | I | ||||
| R3–R4 | 80° | 25 | " | 4 | " | 4 | |||||||
| R4–R5 | 65° | 70 | gully | 4 | icy | " | 6 | ||||||
| R5–R6 | 60° | 15 | icy | 4 | " | 2 | |||||||
| R6–R7 | 70° | 25 | wall | 4 | destroyed | " | 4 | ||||||
| R7–R8 | 90° | 8 | wall | 6 | smooth, monolithic | " | 3 | I | 2 | ||||
| R8–R9 | 80° | 90 | wall | 5 | strong rock | " | 13 | 2 | |||||
| R9–R10 | 60° | 60 | wall | 4 | destroyed rock | " | 5 | ||||||
| R10–R11 | 80° | 85 | wall | 5 | strong rock | " | 11 | 3 | 4 | ||||
| R11–R12 | 85° | 30 | wall | 6 | strong rock | " | 5 | 4 | 2 | ||||
| \multicolumn{14}{ | l | }{Departure – 3:00. Stop for bivouac – 19:30. Climbing hours – 15 h 30 min. Overnight stay sitting on ledges.} | |||||||||||
| July 17, 1980 | R12–R13 | 85° | 70 | wall | 6 | strong rock | good weather | 8 | 6 | 3 | |||
| R13–R14 | 75° | 70 | wall | 5 | strong rock | " | 8 | 3 | 1 | ||||
| R14–R15 | 65° | 85 | wall edge | 4 | icy rocks | " | 6 | ||||||
| R15–R16 | 20° | 650 | ridge | 2 | snow-ice slope | " | |||||||
| \multicolumn{14}{ | l | }{Departure from bivouac – 7:00. Reaching the summit – 12:30. Climbing hours = 5 h 30 min.} |
"Open book". R10–R11.
First in the "Open book". After the cornice. R11–R12.
Photo-11. 1st and 2nd overnight stays on the triangle wall.
Photo-12. Section R8–R9. Exit to the base of the 80-meter slab.
Protocol of the analysis of the ascent to v. Mamison via the right part of the North face, made by a group of climbers from a/l "Torpedo" consisting of:
- Bodnik V.N. — MS USSR, leader
- Barsukov V.A. — CMS
- Derkach A.A. — CMS
- Kharianyk I.V. — CMS
Present:
- Releasing camp, head of training part Akitov I.P.
- Representatives of KSP district Ryazhsky B.S., Balinsky A.P.
- Head of rescue team of the camp Belyaev R.S.
- Instructors of the camp Fomin A.S., Kovtun N.P.
- Participants of the ascent.
Bodnik V.N. "The North face of Mamison has long attracted the attention of climbers. But until now, the right part of the wall remained unclimbed, although the path through it would be the most direct route from the north. The entire North face of Mamison is divided by a powerful icefall into two parts, so it is advisable to talk about two different walls." The route taken by the group: logical, the longest in the right part of the wall, combined.
The upper part of the route (approximately 250 m before the exit to the ridge) presented the greatest difficulty, where climbing was assessed by all participants as extremely difficult. Overcoming the bergschrund proved to be a rather difficult task. Its sheer wall (7 m) was impossible to pass without artificial points of support. Immediately after the bergschrund, the path passes through verglas of very great steepness (80 m, 70°). Even with the help of 12-tooth crampons, its overcoming is a serious problem. Further path within 2–3 ropes could be continued on ice, of increasing steepness. However, this path is extremely dangerous, as it would be necessary to deviate significantly to the left and move under the icefall. Therefore, we preferred the path going vertically upwards, i.e., switched to a rock counterfort and then moved only on rocks. The first two–three ropes of climbing, although they turned out to be quite difficult (4–5 difficulty category), are not comparable to the upper part of the route. Overcoming it without ladders, nut, and pulling backpacks seems unrealistic to us.
Work on the chosen route began on July 15, when the pair Bodnik–Barsukov processed the bergschrund and the first 150 m of the route. The next day at 3 am, the group in full force, having passed the processed part, continued work on the route. On this day, the main part of the route was passed, and about 3 ropes from the ridge, a bivouac was organized. This was the only place on the wall where the group managed to settle together.
On the third day of work, leaving at 7:00, the group reached the summit at 12:30.
The rope teams began the ascent in the following composition: Barsukov–Bodnik and Kharianyk–Derkach. The first went on a double rope, subsequent participants — on fixed ropes. Everyone knew their duties and honestly performed them. I am satisfied with the work of each, I believe that an ascent of this rank is within the capabilities of the guys.
In our general opinion, of the routes passed on Mamison, the path along the right part of the North face is technically the most difficult and requires thorough preparation of the participants themselves and special technical equipment. We believe that the route taken is a serious route of 5B difficulty category.
Derkach A.A. The route was liked, I have no complaints against the participants. Comparing it with the routes I have passed of 5B difficulty category, I believe that this is a very good route of 5B difficulty category.
Kharianyk I.V. The route is similar to "Udar", although a bit shorter, but more complicated.
I liked the work of the leader — clear, reliable, efficient. Derkach coped well with knocking out hooks. There were no slightest friction in the team.
Barsukov V.A. Satisfied with the ascent, the leader, the participants.
Akitov I.P. "The comrades are serious". They prepared well for the ascent. I support the recommendations. To protect the leader's leadership, to count the participants' participation.
Discussion
Secretary
/I. Akitov/
/ A. Derkach/
