Genaldon

First ascent description of Tbau East peak via the Eastern ridge of the South-East bastion, difficulty category 5B, with a detailed description of the route and recommendations for passage.

Rocky ridge; section number in Classification 2.8 Tbau Eastern (2832 m), via the Eastern ridge of the South-Eastern bastion. Proposed category: 5B; first ascent. Route type: rock. Route height difference: 912 m (by GPS). Route length: 1550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category: 135 m. Average steepness: main part of the route: 75°; entire route: 65°. Pitons left on the route: total – 9 pcs., of which 7 are hammered. Pitons used on the route:

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Severnya Kaidzan via the North ridge, difficulty category 2B, with recommendations on equipment and safety techniques.

Description of the ascent route to the summit Severnaia Kaidzhany via the North Ridge, category 2A. Day 1. From the village Ordzhonikidze to the village Verkhnii Lars via the Military Georgian Road (32 km) - about an hour's drive. Within the village, a small left tributary - Belaya Rechka - flows into the Terek River. You need to move west along the gorge of this stream. The trail steeply winds its way up the left bank, gaining height. After 1.5-2 hours of walking, you exit the forest zone and after another hour, you reach a wide trough in the upper reaches of the gorge, where you can set up a bivouac. You can also organize a bivouac an hour's walk further up the gorge, having climbed the high hills of the ancient terminal moraine of the glacier. Day 2. Early start. Move in the direction of the canyon, compressed by "ram's foreheads". It takes about an hour to walk to the canyon across the scree slopes. The canyon can be traversed along the left side (simple climbing on "ram's foreheads" in a rope team) or along the right side, traversing the scree slopes of the East Ridge of S. Kaidzhany. After about 200 meters, you enter a more gentle part of a wide trough-like couloir, which the canyon leads to. Having walked 150 m along the bottom of the "trough" and across simple, ruined rocks, you reach the shoulder of the North Ridge of the summit. A snowy 100-meter ridge leads to a 40-50-meter rocky ascent with a steepness of about 60°. The rocks are extremely ruined (shales), and the protection is hook-based (pitons with long blades). The ascent leads to a 100-meter sharp shale ridge, steeply rising (45°) towards the summit of Severnaia Kaidzhany. The ridge is partially covered with snow, and the rocks are very fragile.

### Description of the First Ascent of Peak 4312 in the Caucasus via the North Spur, Category 3B Completed in 1994 by a team led by Andrey Gorbunov.

Climbing Passport Climbing category: technical Climbing area: Caucasus: 2,86 Genaldon river gorge Peak, route: p. 4312: via N. ridge from the Maili glacier (named after Tsarakhov T.) Estimated category of difficulty: 3B — first ascent Route characteristics: height difference — 1800 m, route length — 2400 m, length of sections — 4th category of difficulty — 40 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 600 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 45° Pitons used: rock — none ice screws — 16 Number of climbing hours (days) — 30 (3)

Ascent to the summit of Malaya Kaydzhany (3700 m) along the eastern ridge, complexity category 1B - 2A, located on the eastern edge of the Central Caucasus.

Malaya Kaidzhany (3700 m) via the Eastern ridge, Cat. 1B–2A The summit is situated on the eastern boundary of the Central Caucasus. It is the northernmost summit in the northern spur of Pik Spartaka. To the south, Malaya Kaidzhany is connected by a ridge to Severная Kaidzhany (3969). To the north, a long ridge descends to Sanibanskii pass (1800 m). To the east, the Eastern ridge steeply descends into the Darial gorge. The summit was first ascended by B. Gолубев's team in 1947, traversing the Kaidzhany massif from the north. The Eastern ridge was climbed by V. Kuprin's team in 1971, and has been repeated several times since. Departure from Ordzhonikidze along the Military Georgian Highway to Verkhnii Lars village. 200–300 m before Verkhnii Lars, a trail (abandoned road) branches off to the right into the Belaya Rechka gorge. Be cautious on the trail, as the slopes of the Belaya Rechka gorge are steep. After 2–2.5 hours of walking, the trail joins another one descending from the right slope at a wider part of the gorge, and follows it onto the Eastern ridge of Malaya Kaidzhany. The broad, grassy ridge-koши offers good camping spots. The camping altitude is 2000 m (according to the altimeter). The path continues along the ridge. The ridge: is steep and grassy at the beginning of the ascent;

Description of the ascent route to the summit Jimaray-xoh via the western edge of IV-A — IV-B category of difficulty.

Ascents on Jimarai-khokh (4778 m) via the western edge 4A–4B cat. diff. The Midagrabin Glacier area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude area to the west and is located in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus. The highest peak in the area and North Ossetia - Jimarai-khokh - is located in the upper reaches of the Midagrabin Glacier. Jimarai-khokh, being a nodal peak of the forward ridge, is connected: by the eastern ridge - with Maili-khokh (4602 m), by the northern ridge - with Shau-khokh (4646 m), by the southern ridge - with Suatisi-khokh (4453 m). The steep ice-rock western edge descends onto the Midagrabin Glacier. For the first time, the western edge of Jimarai-khokh was climbed by a group of North Ossetian climbers led by I. Suzhaev in 1955. In 1958, a group of climbers from the "Lokomotiv" sports society led by L. Tsybin made a second ascent of the route. All participants of both groups were 1st class climbers and Candidate Masters of Sports. Day I. The starting point for the ascent is the city of Ordzhonikidze, from where they follow the road through the villages: Gizel, Dargavs,

Ascent to the summit of Tbau (2980 m) along the North-West ridge, 1B difficulty category, length 2200 m, elevation gain 700 m.

Ascent Passport Caucasus; Rocky Range; Classification section number - 2.8. Tbau (C-3) – 2980 m; from the south along the North-West ridge. 1B category of difficulty; first ascent. Nature of the route – rocky. Route elevation gain – 700 m. The length is about 2200 m. The elevation gain of the wall part of the route is 200 m. The steepness of the key sections of the route is up to 60°. The average steepness of the entire route is 30°. Pitons left on the route – none. Team's walking hours – 5 hours, days – 1.

Peak Kosta, 3628 m high, R10 grade route with technically challenging sections and picturesque views.

Peak Costa 3628 m R10

Ascent description to the South Kaidjani peak (3916 m) via the North-Eastern ridge from the Achishkho valley with a list of necessary equipment.

South Kaidzhany (3916 m) Peak of the Kazbek Highland Region The peak South Kaidzhany is located between the peaks North Kaidzhany and Peak "3850 m" of the Eastern Lateral Ridge, north of the Kazbek massif. The peak has been visited repeatedly since 1947 by mountaineering groups from Ordzhonikidze. Most popular routes: Via the Northeast Ridge From the south, from the Chach gorge Below is a description of both routes: Description of the ascent route to South Kaidzhany via the Northeast Ridge 1B-P-A-cat. diff. Day 1. From Ordzhonikidze, the group arrives by car in 1 hour to the village of Gvileti, from where they ascend on a wide pack trail for 1 hour to the confluence of the Amali and Chach-khi rivers.

### Traverse of Midagrabin-Hokh and Tep-Hokh Peaks in Central Caucasus A challenging mountaineering route with a 4-5 complexity category. The traverse encompasses stunning scenery and technical climbing sections. #### Key Features: * **Location**: Central Caucasus * **Complexity**: 4-5 category * **Notable Peaks**: Midagrabin-Hokh, Tep-Hokh * The route involves traversing two significant peaks, offering breathtaking views and demanding climbing sections.

Traverse of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) – Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks, 4–6 cat. diff. (approximately). The Midadgrabin glacier area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude area (to the west) and is located in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus. The highest peak in the area (and North Ossetia) is Jimarai-Khokh (4778 m). The massifs of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) and Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks are part of the ridge that bounds the Midadgrabin plateau from the south and branches off from Jimarai-Khokh to the west. Relief features: To the north, the ridge drops sharply with steep icy slopes and rocky walls. To the south, it drops with rocky walls. The rocks that make up the massifs of these peaks are extremely unstable, and the ridge between them is heavily destroyed and very sharp with steep drops. The traverse was first completed in September 1956 by the "Lokomotiv" group led by L. Tsypkin. It was traversed for the second time also by the "Lokomotiv" group in the same year. Classification of participants:

Description of the first ascent to the top of Tbau (2980 m) along the southern slope of the North-West ridge, category 2A complexity.

Ascent Passport Caucasus; Rocky Ridge; Classification section number - 2.8. Tbau (C-3) - 2980 m; via the southern wall of the North-West ridge. Category 2A difficulty; first ascent. Route type - rock climbing. Route elevation gain – 650 m. Approximate route length is 2300 m. Wall section elevation gain – 250 m. Steepness of key route sections up to 90°. Average steepness of the entire route – 30°. Pitons left on the route - none. Team's walking hours – 7, days – 1. Team leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich – Master of Sports