Genaldon

Description of category 1B complexity route to Donchentn peak (4192) in the Caucasus, including path characteristics, belay, and ascent photos.

Ascent Passport Ascent category: rock (combined) Ascent area: Caucasus, 2.8, Midagrabindon River valley Peak, route: Donchenty (4192), E ridge Estimated category of difficulty: 1B rock, partially traversed Route characteristics: height difference — 850 m, route length — 1250 m, length of sections with category 2 difficulty — 120 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 45° Pitons hammered: protection through ice axe and rock outcrops. Number of walking hours/days — 12/1 (7 hours).

### Crossing Jimray-Xoh and Suatisi-Xoh Peaks in the Caucasus Category 5B difficulty level. Detailed description of the route.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION Traverse of the peaks Dzhimaraikhokh (4778 m) — "4398" — Suatisi-Khokh (4473 m) 5A cat. diff. The peaks Dzhimaraikhokh (4778 m), "4398" and Suatisi-Khokh (4473 m) are located in the Lateral Range of the Caucasus, west of the peak Kazbek. Their massifs limit the Midagrabin plateau from the east and southeast. Dzhimaraikhokh is the highest peak in the mountains of North Ossetia. The ice masses of Dzhimaraikhokh and Suatisi-Khokh are connected by a ridge. The peaks Dzhimaraikhokh, "4398" and Suatisi-Khokh: are composed of schists cut through by diabase dykes; have significant glaciation. The western rock-ice rib of Dzhimaray steeply descends into the upper cirque of the Midagrabin glacier. The first ascent on Dzhimaraikhokh was made via the eastern ridge by a group led by A. Dzaparidze in 1935. The traverse of the peaks Dzhimaraikhokh — Shau-Khokh is classified as 4A cat. diff.

Report on the first ascent of Category 1B route to the summit of Tbau Main via the South-West ridge from Kakadursky pass.

Report On the first ascent to the summit of Tbau Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge from Kakadursky Pass, category 1B, by the GSK "Krokus" team, May 12, 2019 2019 Ascent Passport | № | 1. General Information | | | :-: | :------------------------------ | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Dryaev Yu.G. — 3rd sports rank, Koklin D.A. — 2nd sports rank, Gudieva M.V. — 2nd sports rank. | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Egorin S.V. |

Ascent of Peak "3850" (North Ossetia) via the northern ice-rocky edge, category of complexity 2B.

Ascents to Peak "3850" 3B cat. (in North Ossetia it is called Peak "3944"). The summit is located in the northern spur of the Lateral Ridge of the Caucasus. The spur branches off from Peak Spartak (4677 m) on the Kazbek firn plateau and includes the following peaks from south to north: Unnamed (Peak Ordzhonikidzevskaya Railway — 4007 m) Peak Iriston (4000 m) Chach-khokh (4100 m) Peak "3850" South Kaidzhani (3916 m) North Kaidzhani (3969 m) Climbers ascending the Kaidzhan–Chach-khokh traverse have twice reached the summit. In January 1959, D. Shevchuk's group ascended Peak "3850" as an independent ascent object from the east; however, the route from the east remained unclassified (approximately 1B cat.). The first ascent of the northern ice-rock rib of Peak "3850" was made by a group of climbers from the North Ossetian Sports Society "Spartak" under the leadership of T. Khakurinov on October 3, 1965. Following the pioneers, a group from the SO Council "Spartak" under the leadership of G. Eputaev ascended the route.

Description of the route to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B, with information on approaches and technical passage of the route.

Description of the state of the route to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B complexity. The nature of the route as of September 2015: snow-ice rock sections do not present technical difficulties Approaches To get to the village of Verkhny Koni, register at the border post (the summit is located in a border area, and a permit is required to climb; it's best to obtain it in advance), then go up to the village of Tmenikau. 2 km further up the gorge is a border post, the farthest point reachable by car. From the border post, a gentle, wide trail (formerly a geological road) leads up the Genaldon gorge to the warm mineral springs in front of the tongue of the Maili glacier. This is where the base camp for climbing Mt. Kazbek from the north is located. There are places for tents and water. The distance from the border post to the springs is about 9 km, taking around 4 hours on foot. The trail continues over a suspension bridge across the Genaldon river to the lateral moraine of the Maili glacier, ending at the glacier's tongue. Then: climb onto the tongue of the Maili glacier (morphology changes frequently, from a steep ice wall to a gentle passage consisting of moraine deposits) near its western edge, cross to the lateral moraine and move along it beside the Genaldon river until a left (orographic) tributary flows into it,

Ascent to the summit Tbau Eastern (2832 m) via the eastern edge of the south-eastern bastion, complexity category 5B, rock route.

Ascent Passport Rocky ridge; Classification section № 2.8 96 Tbau East (2832 m), via the Eastern edge of the Southeast bastion. 5B category of difficulty Route type: rock Route height difference: 912 m (by GPS) Route length: 1550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 150 m. Average steepness: — main part of the route: 75°

Report on the first traverse ascent of Tbau Glavnaya — Tbau North-Western, category 1B, by the FATUM Climbing Team on February 14, 2024.

REPORT on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, 1B category of complexity, by the KAT Fatum team February 14, 2024 I. Climbing Report | № | 1. General Information | | | :---: | :-----------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Tolistikova E.Yu. — 2nd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of coach | Egorin S.V. |

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Jimaray-khokh (4773 m) via the North Ridge, category 3B difficulty, with a detailed description of the approach, ascent, and descent.

Ascent Passport I. Climbing category: technical Climbing area: Caucasus; 2.8; Kolka glacier Peak, route: Dzhimaraikhokh peak (4773 m); I knee-fold of the North ridge from Kolka glacier Estimated category of difficulty — 3B category of difficulty; first ascent Route characteristics: height difference — 2000 m, route length — 2800 m, length of sections: 5 category of difficulty — 20 m, 4 category of difficulty — 200 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 40°–45° Pitons hammered: ice screws — 50 pcs., rock pitons — 3 pcs., chocks — none Number of climbing hours/days — 20/2

Ascent to Peak 25-letiya SKGMI (3840 m) from the east, category of difficulty II-B + III-A, from the valley of Belaya River via the eastern spur.

Peak 25th Anniversary of SKGMI (~3840 m) from the east 2B + 3A cat. diff. The peak is located at the extreme eastern end of the Central Caucasus, in the Kazbek group of peaks of the Lateral Ridge. The peak is the easternmost summit in the Northeast spur from the Kazbek Firn Plateau, consisting consecutively of the peaks: Peak "4005 m", Iriston Peak (3969 m), Chach-khokh (4098 m), Peak "3850 m", South Kaijany (3916 m), North Kaijany (3969 m), Peak 25th Anniversary of SKGMI (~3840 m). The massif of the peak and its eastern spurs separate the river basins - tributaries of the Terek: to the south - Koba-khi and upstream of its tributary - Chach-khi, to the north - the Belaya River. On the western and eastern slopes of the peak, one small dying cirque glacier has survived. The massif is composed mainly of clay shales, with separate outcrops of intrusive rocks. The slopes are significantly covered with talus. The first ascent was made by a group of climbers from the North Caucasus Institute of Mining and Metallurgy led by I. Suzhaev in 1956 via the simplest route from the Chach valley (2A cat. diff.). In subsequent years, ascents from the Chach valley were made repeatedly. In July 1971, a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze (SO ASSR) led by R.P. Proskuryakov made the first ascent to the peak from the east, from the Belaya River valley. A description of the route is given below.

Traverse of the peaks Arau-khokh East (2392 m), Arau-khokh Central (2548 m), and Kuardjin Well. (2611 m) in the Caucasus, a rock route of category 2B complexity.

Ascent Log I. Ascent category: rock climbing Ascent area: Caucasus, 28, Arau-khokh massif Peak, route: p. Arau-khokh (2392 m) — p. Kuardjin Uzl. (2611 m) — traverse from east to west. Estimated cat. difficulty 2B: p/p Route characteristics: Height difference – 220 m, route length – 4000 m, section lengths: 3 – 100 m 4 – 70 m, average steepness of the main part of the route – 40° Pitons driven: