Report on the first traverse ascent of Tbau Glavnaya — Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya 1Bz category of difficulty by the FATUM CAT team on February 14, 2024.
Report on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, winter category 1B difficulty level, by the FATUM CAT team on February 14, 2024. I. Climbing Passport | № | 1. General Information | | | :-- | :-- | :-- | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Tolistikova E.Yu. — 2nd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of coach | Egorin S.V. | | 1.4 | Organization | FATUM CAT | | 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object | | |
Report on the first traverse ascent of Tbau Glavnaya — Tbau North-Western, category 1B, by the FATUM Climbing Team on February 14, 2024.
REPORT on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, 1B category of complexity, by the KAT Fatum team February 14, 2024 I. Climbing Report | № | 1. General Information | | | :---: | :-----------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Tolistikova E.Yu. — 2nd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of coach | Egorin S.V. |
Description of a Category 2 difficulty route to the summit of Chach-Khokh (4207 m) via the eastern ridge from Chach valley with a detailed analysis of the route and necessary equipment.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION to the summit of Chach-khokh, category 2B complexity (height 4107 m) via the eastern ridge, approved on 17/2-67. The summit is located in the watershed ridge (between the basins of the Genal-don and Chach-khi rivers), connecting the Kazbek plateau to the south with the peak Iriston and further to the north with S. and Y. Kaidzhany. The summit has been visited repeatedly by mountaineering groups. All ascents were made from the Chach valley. The route is classified. Day 1 The group travels by car along the VGD to the village of Gvileti, from where it is no more than 1 hour's walk along a dirt road to the confluence of the Kebati and Chach-khi rivers. After crossing the Kebati River and then the Chach-khi River at their confluence, the group heads along a trail to the right (Chach) valley. The trail winds up the slope and leads to the first "gates" of the Chach valley (a height difference of about 300-400 m). Next, it is necessary to go up to the right. Overcoming the "ram's foreheads of the gates" along one of the shelves that divides them, you should climb up the grassy slope to a group of trees, from which a well-trodden trail begins again. Follow the trail into a wide couloir, cross a stream, after which the trail turns sharply to the right under the rocks. Following along them, it will lead to a shoulder forming the first "gates" of the valley. It takes about 1.5 hours to walk from the confluence of the rivers to the pass point of the first "gates". The "ram's foreheads" must be passed with caution and gymnastic belay.
First ascent of the route, cat. 5B, via the cornices of the Southwest wall on Tbau North-West (2980 m) in the Skalisty Range.
Ascent Passport Rocky Ridge, section number 2.8 in the classification. Tbau N-W 2980 m, via cornices on the South-West wall. Proposed 5B category; first ascent. Route type: rock. Route height difference: 580 m (by altimeter and topographic map). Route length: 950 m. Section length: 5 category – 52 m. 6 category – 27 m.
First ascent description of Tbau-khokh peak (2980 m) via South-West wall, grade 5A, in the Caucasus, Kurtatinsky gorge.
Ascent log. Ascent category: rock. 2.7.1 Ascent area: 2,8; Caucasus: Kurtatinskoye gorge. Summit, route: Mt. Tbau-khokh (2980 m); via the Southwest wall. Estimated difficulty category: 5A category; first ascent. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m; length — 1200 m. Section lengths: 6 — 50 m; 5 — 210 m; 3-4 — 330 m. Average slope: 40°; wall section: 60°. Pitons hammered: rock — 34; chocks — 4; ice screws — none. Number of climbing hours (days): 23 (2) Number of bivouacs: 1st — on approach; 2nd — on the wall; 3rd — on descent. Leader: Glazov A. P. – Master of Sports
Climbing route description for Tbaukhokh peak (3007 m) via the North-West face, with a complexity category of 3B-4A, featuring a detailed path analysis and recommendations.
Passport Ascent class: rock climbing. Ascent area: Caucasus, Rocky Ridge. Peak, route: Tbaukhoh (3007 m), via the left part of the Southwest wall. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B–4A, first ascent. Height difference: 600 m — including 400 m of actual wall climbing — total route length: 900 m — length of wall climbing: 450 m, including: — 35 m of 5th category complexity
Description of a category 3 complexity ascent to the summit of Tbau-khokh (2980 m) via the southern slope and northwestern ridge in the Caucasus.
Climbing type: rock climbing Climbing area: 2.8: Caucasus: Kurtatin gorge Peak, route: Tbau-khokh peak (2980 m): from the South via the chimney and the North-West ridge Estimated category of difficulty: 3A category of difficulty: first ascent Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, route length — 750 m, length of sections: 4–5 — 40 m 3 — 200 m, average steepness: chimney — 60° ridge — 45°
Description of the first ascent to the top of Tbau (2980 m) along the southern slope of the North-West ridge, category 2A complexity.
Ascent Passport Caucasus; Rocky Ridge; Classification section number - 2.8. Tbau (C-3) - 2980 m; via the southern wall of the North-West ridge. Category 2A difficulty; first ascent. Route type - rock climbing. Route elevation gain – 650 m. Approximate route length is 2300 m. Wall section elevation gain – 250 m. Steepness of key route sections up to 90°. Average steepness of the entire route – 30°. Pitons left on the route - none. Team's walking hours – 7, days – 1. Team leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich – Master of Sports
Ascent to the summit of Tbau (2980 m) along the North-West ridge, 1B difficulty category, length 2200 m, elevation gain 700 m.
Ascent Passport Caucasus; Rocky Range; Classification section number - 2.8. Tbau (C-3) – 2980 m; from the south along the North-West ridge. 1B category of difficulty; first ascent. Nature of the route – rocky. Route elevation gain – 700 m. The length is about 2200 m. The elevation gain of the wall part of the route is 200 m. The steepness of the key sections of the route is up to 60°. The average steepness of the entire route is 30°. Pitons left on the route – none. Team's walking hours – 5 hours, days – 1.
Report on the first ascent of Category 1B route to the summit of Tbau Main via the South-West ridge from Kakadursky pass.
Report On the first ascent to the summit of Tbau Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge from Kakadursky Pass, category 1B, by the GSK "Krokus" team, May 12, 2019 2019 Ascent Passport | № | 1. General Information | | | :-: | :------------------------------ | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Dryaev Yu.G. — 3rd sports rank, Koklin D.A. — 2nd sports rank, Gudieva M.V. — 2nd sports rank. | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Egorin S.V. |